carpet seams


  #1  
Old 06-20-03, 02:02 PM
j merz
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carpet seams

I HAVE SEAM TAPE, DO I PUT THE TAPE ON THE FLOOR, PLACE A BROWN BAG ON IT, IRON IT, PULL THE TAPE COVER OFF AND PLACE THE CARPET BACK ON TOP OF TAPE, RUN IRON OVER IT AGAIN AND PLACE A HEAVY TOOL BOX TO HOLD IN PLACE.
 
  #2  
Old 06-20-03, 03:58 PM
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You cut the seam edges so you have a clean edge to work with. Latex carpet seam sealer is then applied to the cut edges, to seal all the voids in the edge, that would allow yarn loss or delamination at the seam. Let that dry completely!!!(*hot melt and a gluegun with a sealing tip is also approved, but you better not be trying that technique for the first time. You can have a mess quickly*)

The seam really should be constructed over a hard surface and not the cushion, but this is DIY.(*we did it in the old days*)

Butt seam edges together, and hold one side of seam area up and position seam tape under the carpet seam edges. The seam tape should have a center stripe or reference, to keep it centered.

In iron, the right size(4 or 6 inch)designed to construct hot melt carpet seams is mandatory. Try using a clothes iron and you might as well shoot yourself in the foot.

Set the iron on 300-350, depending on the carpet, the carpet backing, and the seam tape.

I would start in the middle of the seam if I were you and it being the first time. Open the edges and place the iron directly on the seam tape. Let it sit for 10-15 seconds, or enough to melt the thermoplastic hot melt glue. Move the iron forward the length of the iron, to heat more glue. As fast as you can, fluff the face yarns out of the seam edges with your thumbs on both sides and press into the thermoplastic, making sure the backings touch, without gapping or overlapping, Then a carpet seam roller is rolled across the seam pressing down as hard as you can, to get maximum transfer of hotmelt into the backing(*the reason for a seam board/hard surface to construct seam on, as mentioned above*)

A piece of unstained or unpainted wood should be used as a weight behind the iron after fluffing and rolling. Then push the iron forward again and repeat to the wall. Don't leave the iron in one place longer then 10- 15 seconds, or you will melt and distort the nylon carpet backing from the heat of the iron.

Good luck!! It is an art, that won't be learned on this one seam.
 
  #3  
Old 06-21-03, 11:53 AM
floorman
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i was always taught to start at on end and work to the other how else can you get a continous seam?or try to put a hot iron in between the carpet without burning something[hands,carpet]not to mention trying to get that other to conform to what has already been seamed?
 
  #4  
Old 06-21-03, 04:00 PM
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Floorman, where would you start making your seam on a pin dot patterned product, that is going to be stretched in? Then explain why! Explain continuous, please?



>> try to put a hot iron in between the carpet without burning something[hands,carpet]not to mention trying to get that other to conform to what has already been seamed? > I was always taught to start at on end and work to the other.
 
  #5  
Old 06-22-03, 10:48 AM
floorman
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i just asked a question is all no anamosity or anything intended just curious'thats whole reason i asked the question.How did you getthe pin dot pattern out of that guys post anyway?I am always looking to expand my skills and learn new things,i don't know everything and don't claim to so anything you can help with would be greatly appreciated as carpet is not my strong suit which is why i usually just brouse this portion of the site no hard feelins
 
  #6  
Old 06-22-03, 04:10 PM
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It is esier to correct any pattern elongation, if you start in the middle of the seam and work to the walls. Even pulling the iron out and starting the other direction while the opposite side cools, so you can work the pattern back in. Stay nailing is for repairs!!
 
 

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