Berber Carpet
#1
10-28-00, 11:57 AM
My dog unraveled about a 3" stip leaving the unraveled strands. What is best way to fix this?
#3
10-31-00, 04:28 PM
Unlike hosery, carpet, even berbers, can be patched. You will need a scrap bigger than the damaged area, a carpet or utility knife (new blades), sharp sissors, some carpet seaming tape, carpet seam adhesive and a hot glue gun.
Remember that carpet has a pile direction (grain) and the patch should be done according to this. Cut through the damaged carpet following the row between the yarns all around the damaged area (bend the scrap in half with the backing inside and you'll see what I mean). Cut the scrap the same size, also following the rows.
Put something like a spoon or toiletpaper tube under the existing carpet so that the cut edges are lifted off the floor slightly. Apply seaming glue to just the edges of the backing visible at the base of the yarns (don't get any on the yarns. Also apply seam adhesive to the edges of the scraps backing. Let them both dry a bit.
Remove the tube or spoons. Stuff the seaming tape into the hole so that it extends at least an inch and a half under the good carpet. Lift each side slightly and get plenty of hot melt glue on the tape and press the carpet into it. Don't put so much on that it oozes out the sides. Now squirt hot glue all over the exposed tape, getting as close as you can to the edge of the existing carpet, but not on it. Press the scrap into position, fluffing the yarns up even with the rest of the carpet (you don't want yarns stuck down in the seam edges). You can press it flat with a piece of plywood with a heavy book on top or something similar (it needs to breath, yet stay flat for several minutes.
When it is completely cool, fluff the yarns with the flat of your hand and clip the loose ends flush with the carpet with a sharp pair of sissors.
The biggest problem with patching berbers is that the yarns run the length of the material. Loose yarns can be pulled, as you already know, like a zipper. If you follow these directions and take care to trim your loose threads, you souldn't have a problem. The procedures a pro would use are only slightly different and would ensure a trouble free patch. But this way, you save 50 or a hun'erd bucks.
Let us know how it goes.
Jim
JMFloors
Remember that carpet has a pile direction (grain) and the patch should be done according to this. Cut through the damaged carpet following the row between the yarns all around the damaged area (bend the scrap in half with the backing inside and you'll see what I mean). Cut the scrap the same size, also following the rows.
Put something like a spoon or toiletpaper tube under the existing carpet so that the cut edges are lifted off the floor slightly. Apply seaming glue to just the edges of the backing visible at the base of the yarns (don't get any on the yarns. Also apply seam adhesive to the edges of the scraps backing. Let them both dry a bit.
Remove the tube or spoons. Stuff the seaming tape into the hole so that it extends at least an inch and a half under the good carpet. Lift each side slightly and get plenty of hot melt glue on the tape and press the carpet into it. Don't put so much on that it oozes out the sides. Now squirt hot glue all over the exposed tape, getting as close as you can to the edge of the existing carpet, but not on it. Press the scrap into position, fluffing the yarns up even with the rest of the carpet (you don't want yarns stuck down in the seam edges). You can press it flat with a piece of plywood with a heavy book on top or something similar (it needs to breath, yet stay flat for several minutes.
When it is completely cool, fluff the yarns with the flat of your hand and clip the loose ends flush with the carpet with a sharp pair of sissors.
The biggest problem with patching berbers is that the yarns run the length of the material. Loose yarns can be pulled, as you already know, like a zipper. If you follow these directions and take care to trim your loose threads, you souldn't have a problem. The procedures a pro would use are only slightly different and would ensure a trouble free patch. But this way, you save 50 or a hun'erd bucks.
Let us know how it goes.
Jim
JMFloors
#4
11-02-00, 07:48 AM
Like Jim said, But you can use Elmers glue. Just don't go wild with it. Seam sealer is better, but for a home owner it may be hard to find.
Take your trusty scissors, and cut just the nylon layer, not all the way through the secondary backing, from where the snag starts to where it ends. Pull the yarn out of the trough/row. Squirt some Elmer's down the trough, and use an ice pick or small jewlers screwdriver to poke the loop down into the Elmer's. You can see on the srand of yard where it has latex on it, where it needs to be pushed into the glue. Just stich it back.
Perry
Take your trusty scissors, and cut just the nylon layer, not all the way through the secondary backing, from where the snag starts to where it ends. Pull the yarn out of the trough/row. Squirt some Elmer's down the trough, and use an ice pick or small jewlers screwdriver to poke the loop down into the Elmer's. You can see on the srand of yard where it has latex on it, where it needs to be pushed into the glue. Just stich it back.
Perry
