Carpet transition nails

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  #1  
Old 04-18-08, 07:31 AM
S
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Carpet transition nails

I waswondering if someone can help me out with a problem I'm having with my condo. I just purchased it, and one problem I'm seeing with the metal transition from the carpet to the tile. It is roughly 30 inches long, and it has 4 nailholes to hold it down. The problem is that the nails aren't holding down, and 2 of the nails have come out. This is all sitting on a concrete slab. The condo was built in 1974, and it seems that in other locations(where I pulled up the carpet ) I noticed that the concrete isn't very smooth. I went to home depot and bought some carpet nails,but they were way too short, and wouldn't really grip on to anything(it was some blue nails that were maybe about 1/2 inch or so long). So my question, is what is the best way to adhere the transition stripe down to the floor? Any ideas on where I can get better nails for this type of job?

Thanks for your help.
-S
 
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Old 04-18-08, 07:53 AM
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Sounds like lightweight concrete, especially if it is on the upper levels of the building.

2" long roofing nails may work, especially if you drive them in the same holes. I have even used 12D nails, into lightweight or gypcrete.
 
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Old 04-18-08, 08:05 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I will try the 2inch roofing nail. You don't think I have pre-drill, just hammer that in? I was trying another nail( I couldn't tell you right now what type it was) but it was starting to bend, when Itried to hammer it. Are roofing nails pretty strong?
 
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Old 04-22-08, 10:15 AM
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Doorbar on lightweight concrete

I have found that roofing nails / any nail with a smooth shank are generally insuffiecnt when nailing doorbars / tackstrip for that matter to lightweight concrete (i.e.Elasticel Concrete). The reason being is; with smooth shanked nails, the tension of the carpet on the pins of the doorbar / tackstrip tend to lift or pull the nails straight out of the floor. And we don't want that do we?

Again, they do make nails especially designed for such purposes however, I have found that 1 1/2" - 2" ringed drywall nails work well because the concrete tends to "bite" onto the shank.

If you are having a problem with nails bending you can always try drilling a pilot hole slightly smaller in diameter then the nail itself, then hammer the nail into the hole. Or you can try the Drill and plug method (with the approprite sized plugs with nails / screws) which also works well.
 
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Old 05-04-08, 11:12 PM
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I totally missed the doorbar part. I was thinking tackstrip across and tucked, with latex in the gully.

For gold bar metal, fill the hols made buy the aluminum nails that were originally used for the bar installation with toothpicks, pack the hole full and hammer them in flush with the surface of the concrete. Then use the right nails for the glod bar and renail it into the wood.
 
 

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