Threshold where new ceramic tile meets carpet


  #1  
Old 03-25-02, 11:43 AM
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Unhappy Threshold where new ceramic tile meets carpet

I am trying to finish laying ceramic tiles and have come to a problem figuring out how the tiles in the halfbath should meet the carpet at the threshold.

The underfloor is cement. We have left the metal strip on the threshold in place, but have pulled it up in place so that we could remove the floor adhesive underneath.

I would like to finish the edge without the metal strip. Should I lay the tile so that it is 3/8" from the tackstrip to form a gully (I am assuming the tackstrip is what is holding the carpet down in place at the metal strip)? Since the carpet is already on tackstrip, can I just remove the metal strip and tuck the carpet into the gully without losing any stretch on the carpet?

What exactly is a tuck? Do I need to fold the carpet at the edge before tucking?

Thank you very much for your help.
 
  #2  
Old 03-25-02, 08:55 PM
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Austin, TX
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First off, the separation from one surface to the next should take place right under and in the middle the door. The door is not in the center of the doorcasing. If the metal was placed in the right place originally, removing it and continuing tile will place tile out from under the door into the carpeted area. If that's ok with you, go for it. It won't look right IMO.

Now remove the metal. Place a second tackstrip where the metal was, if in fact the metal was backed up with a peice of tackstrip. So now you have 2 peices of tackstrip across the doorway. This will let the 2 different floorcoverings meet under the door.

Now the proper way to do it would be to fold the carpet back out of the way, marking where the carpet stops on the floor without the metal. Install your C-tile, and stop it at your line. Now nail or drill with a masons bit and molly the tackstrip leaving a 3/8" gully between the tile to tuck the carpet to. Latex the gully with a small bead of acrylic carpet seam sealer. Stretch, trim if needed and tuck.

That keeps you from having to deal with thinset and grout all over the tackstrip and in the gully you want to tuck the carpet in to.
 
  #3  
Old 03-25-02, 09:53 PM
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Thank you very much - that was very informative. Two more questions, if you could help me:

1. If I were to ask a carpet installer to do what you had suggested, what would be a reasonable cost range? I do not own a drill to drill into concrete, and the cost of buying/renting plus headache might just all add up to having a professional do it.
If I leave the job for a professional, should I go ahead and tile all the way to the metal? With or without 3/8" to spare?

2. Another option would be to leave the metal right where it is. Is that a normal way for carpet to meet tile? If yes, do I tile all the way to the metal? Or a little under the metal?

I know I sound very clueless, but the truth is... I am.
 
  #4  
Old 03-26-02, 08:24 PM
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My minimum charge just went up to $100 in January, from $65.

Every place/region is different on "The going rates".
Here in Austin, the cost of living is astronomical(Silicon Valley moved here) and going up daily. So my rates, may be higher then someone in your neck of the woods.

I would tile under the metal by ¼". To reattach the metal to the floor, it has to come loose from the carpet, because you don't want to nail through the carpet to attach the metal. I would spend $2 and buy a new metal. Nail down tackstrip just like I explained before, so there is a gully behind the tile. Beat all the tacks down. This will act as a furring strip for the wide metal to sit on and still be level with the tile. Nail the metal strip so it covers ¼" of the tile edge, and fasten through the tackstrip/furring strip under it.
 
 

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