Putting in border around fireplace

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Old 09-01-02, 04:23 PM
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Putting in border around fireplace

Hi,

I'm putting in a border around some fireplace tile using "universal" pieces (3 pieces). They overlap both the wood floor and the tile.

I got a drill/counter sink/plug cutter set and it works well. I then realized that the border pieces will not be at 90 degress to each other. I cut the long piece with 45 degree ends and undercut the edge with a jigsaw so as to have a better chance at getting a tight joint between pieces.

I'm planning to cut a scap piece by trial and error to get the angle right (a 45 degree wasn't close enough) on the 2 side pieces. I think I can get a fairly tight joint between pieces but it's taking way too long. For future reference I was wondering how this is done to get those picture frame tight 45 degree joints because seems like I can never get them.

I think part of the answer is to do all the borders before the flooring and to also use reducers for all carpet/tile/linoleum borders. Universals, since they overlap both surfaces, are for people who can't plan well enough to use a tounge/groove reducer. Is this correct?

Thanks
 
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Old 09-01-02, 10:03 PM
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Alex:

It sounds like you're making every effort to get the miter cuts to fit snug by shaving off the underside. This procedure eliminates "blade pull" for lack of another term. Another words when you cut the miter the material has a tendancy to move just a tad when the blade cuts through it. The only other reason for the joints not squaring up would be the floor itself being slightly out of "flatness"

Is this what we are doing?



Unfortunately you'll have to cut and paste the url picture provided as it appears the codes here at DIY are not working.

Ken Fisher
 
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Old 09-02-02, 10:09 AM
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I'm not beveling the miter with the miter saw because I knew what you describe would happen. Nevertheless, I do notice that the wood does try to move even when cutting at a 45 miter with no bevel. The wood is maple and the saw does not go thru it all that easy. Another thing I realized is that you have to try to cut the wood at about the angle (meaning the angle of the base of the universal vs. the floor) that it's going to be installed at. This has to estimated since the piece is resting on the wood floor and tile and not the base of the universal. I realized this from reading about crown molding cutting technique.

I actually back cut the underside with a jigsaw.

What I did yesterday is with a scrap piece of wood by trial and error found the right angle. It wasn't off much, about 46.5 vs. 45 degrees but that made a big difference.

Do you have a favorite miter saw or any special miter saw technique to prevent the saw from pulling the wood. I even notice baseboard molding moving slightly when I cut bevels.

Thanks
 
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Old 09-02-02, 10:40 AM
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Ok, now I see what you mean. You actually cut a bevel BEFORE cutting the miter.

But when you cut 45 miter, the bevel will only help you for part of the cut. So do you cut a rough 45 miter with bevel first and then cut a second 45 miter without bevel close to the first cut?

Am I making any sense here?
 
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Old 09-02-02, 01:42 PM
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Alex:

After I make the miter cut I raise the board on the chop saw itself and shave off the portion you saw in the photo. It's going to happen regardless of what tool you use. Using a sharp carbide blade will eliminate 95% of it.
 
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