wood florring installation kit

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  #1  
Old 09-08-02, 01:13 PM
David Buckley
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wood florring installation kit

I am in the process of installing some Harris Tarket Long strip flooring in my home. I have been renting a Pergo Installation kit from Home Depot, however, I would like to purchase a kit. The Pergo kit came with long straps, screw jacks to place between the floor ends and the wall and with tapping blocks and pull bars. Does anyone know where I might be able to purchase that type of kit?
 
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Old 09-08-02, 03:52 PM
H
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David:

Frankly, the straps won't do you much good in my opinion with a product such at the HT Longstrip. However they may help in starting the first two rows which as always a real bugger. Once started I have always used a short 2' X 4' as a good tapping block, along with a 3 lb mini sledge or hammer. It's worked for me. Have you considered something similiar?

And a real pull bar would be something like this....

http://bal.ifloor.com/files/60/tarkettpullbar.jpg

Ken Fisher
floridawoodfloors.net
 
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Old 09-08-02, 06:35 PM
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Definitely get the mini sledge... I used a 19oz hammer and I couldn't get some of them completely closed hitting the tapping block as hard as possible!
 
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Old 09-10-02, 07:41 PM
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Old 09-10-02, 09:53 PM
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Good suggestions Perry, but the first two won't work well with the Harris-Tarkett(HT), no matter how hard you try. They just don't have the power to pull the boards together 'cause the HT is milled so darned tight. Btw, I finally put some pics together for a floating install and HT shown in the example.

http://www.floridawoodfloors.net/floating.htm

Ken Fisher
 
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Old 09-11-02, 08:45 AM
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Excellent web page Ken and thanks for the continued support!

As I mentioned before I had a heck of a time closing the gaps in my flooring - a mini sledge would have helped some but I think the T&G was too tight. I ended up using a dremel to open the groove slightly but this is risky since previously placed boards may open up when tapping in new boards. The product was from Universal Flooring which I don't recommend.

I also noticed that in that floor you have an angled wall like mine. I had a heck of a time closing the angled pieces. The problem is that the boards want to torque when prying them (I didn't have the pullbar but I imagine the effect is the same). Any tips in this regard?


Also if you have any pictures of the borders on that floor or any other I'd like to see that. That subject isn't covered anywhere. I finally got my fireplace border done but it took me about 5 days worth of work over 6 months. I ended up using plugs over screws and sanding/refinishing the pieces. Kind of defeats the purpose of prefinished! I'm under the impression you don't use that method.

Thanks again,

-Alex
 
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Old 09-11-02, 09:36 AM
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Alex:

When you have an angled wall like that it's best to start the rows from that side even if it means reversing the installation direction for awhile. Te same is true when you have to go under door casings and the like.

"Also if you have any pictures of the borders on that floor" No borders on that job. I'm in the midst of another website that you may see in a month or so, and alot more will be included. I just don't want to unveil it until it's near done as I've been spending so many hours trying to fix the first one.

The site will be hardwoodinstaller.com
 
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Old 09-11-02, 11:51 AM
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Sorry to belabor the point, but even if you install the angled piece first, when you install the next piece it may dislodge the angled piece. Of course I would imagine that the T&G glue sets up pretty quick so perhaps just let the angled piece set up longer?
 
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Old 09-11-02, 12:05 PM
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I can't beleive you are having problems with the H-T Longstrips.

So far. I have installed about 700 sq ft of Oak H-T with very little problems.

What specie of wood are you installing?

I have always used the rubber side of the Porta-Nailer to put them in before nailing without any problems.

I have found that sometimes the plank is bowed up or down. I simply apply light pressure with my foot to take out the bow and it goes together.

If the plank is bowed end to end, fit one end and nail it, then work your way down.
 
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Old 09-11-02, 12:11 PM
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K:

Are you working with the Tarkett from Lowes or the real thing? There is a BIG difference. Alex: Placing a temporary wedge in between the wall/base and the material will prevent it from moving for the most part. It can be a pain. Soemtimes it will whack it out of place, others times it won't.

Ken
 
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Old 09-11-02, 01:22 PM
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HWG:

The product I am working with is solid oak, not engineered, so "Longstrip" may be the wrong classification here.

Local Lowes does not carry H-T, Home Despot carries the H-T.

I am glad I and using the solid wood stuff, it appears to be alot less hassle.
 
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