Solid Hardwood/Engineered/ Laminate???


Old 09-17-02, 11:26 AM
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Question Solid Hardwood/Engineered/ Laminate???

UGH! I have been reading tons of info and I'm still not sure what would be best.

Here's what I have to work with. Concrete floor (currently covered with carpet & ceramic tile), 2 small kids, dog, dry climate most of the year (Phoenix). I want to pull at least the carpet (850 sq ft) and maybe the ceramic tiled kitchen (another 150 sq ft) depending on how bad it will look to have wood floor on the whole downstairs level and ceramic tile in the kitchen.

I love the look and feel of solid hardwood, but I understand that it needs to be nailed in and has to have a wood subfloor. I'm not sure I want to have to lay plywood first. I don't like the tapping sound of most laminate. I'm not totally opposed to the laminate, but I would prefer to not have that clicking sound as I walk across it. Is there a way to minimize that? So, is the engineered hardwood a happy medium? Is the whole process something that a medium level do-it-yourselfer could do? We have laid ceramic tile and brick patio/grass borders ourselves in the past.

Any additional info/recommendations would be much appreciated.

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Old 09-17-02, 11:57 AM
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Pre-engineered floor can also be glued down. As a matter of fact that used to be the most common way to do it, befor the advent of the stapler constructed for that purpose.
Old 09-17-02, 01:32 PM
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Look at some of the Armstrong laminate. For longevity Laminate id the way to go.

Old 09-19-02, 09:52 AM
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i recently did two rooms. both were wtw carpet. one on the concrete slab, the other upstairs on particle subfloor....

used harris tarkett "vanguard" oak wheat with comes in boards about 4 ft. long and 7.5 inch wide, and i think 5/8 in. thick.... 14.75 sq. ft. per case... thin layer of nice prefinished wood on top of cheap wood... (vanguard has now been replaced with "tap tight" which appears to be essentially the same flooring but with glue pre-applied to tongue and groove...)

did "floating" install in both rooms which means no glue or nail DOWN required - you fit the boards together and the entire floor "floats" on a foam underlayment... idiot friendly, except making the cuts around corners, through doorways, etc...

ripping up the carpet, padding, and strips was fairly easy but took time... (tip: cut the carpet into manageable sized strips)...

have never removed ceramic tile, but it sounds like hard work!

Old 09-19-02, 10:19 AM
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How is the sound of the Vanguard? I really am not excited about the hollow tapping of laminate. Does the engineered have the same sound. I don't know anyone who has used it, so I'm unsure of the look (besides looking at samples).

Old 09-19-02, 11:42 AM
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it's wood, over 1/2" thick, so it feels and sounds solid!
Old 09-19-02, 06:48 PM
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Teena.... A floating floor, either engineed wood or laminate will produce a "hollow" sound. There are acoustical underlayments that work but not 95%. First things first. Check your slab for moisture like this. Cut a piece of 6 mil polyethylene sheeting in a 24 to 30" square. Tape the poly directly to the concrete floor with duct tape and leave it for 24 - 30 hours. When you take it up, if there are moisture or water droplets on the poly, you will need a pro to do a real moisture test. This will be important in both choosing and installing a new floor. The left over polyethylene can be used later when you install your floor. If you live near the 51 and can find 2230 E McDowell take a shopping trip to Arizona Hardwood Floors. They have a great show room and both hardwood and laminate. I don't usually name names but in this case it seems you need some reliable hands on help. I am not associated with this dealer.
Old 09-19-02, 06:55 PM
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Have you looked at a Kahrs wood floor?
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