2 1/4" x 3/4" oak for stairs? HELP


  #1  
Old 12-24-02, 09:25 PM
1AB
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2 1/4" x 3/4" oak for stairs? HELP

Ok, my wife and I installed and finished (#2 grade) red oak flooring(1,500sq.') in the first floor of our house(3yrs ago). We love it!!! It looks awesome to us.(our very first woodworking experience).

Now on to the ?. We are now almost done with the upstairs, and the "stairs" are becomeing an issue. I really want to use the oak flooring we have left to finish the stairs.

I can get a nose piece that I think is 3 1/2 " ($3.50 per lineal ') from the same distributor I bought the above mentioned oak from. They said it is possible to install the flooring on the stairs.

So can anyone give me pointers\guidelines for attempting this grueling task? How to nail it; glue?; tips on sanding after it is installed.

TIA,
Later...
 
  #2  
Old 12-25-02, 01:22 PM
H
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Very difficult project for a diy'er as this requires alot of precision for best results. Have you considered hiring a professional for this one? At the following link are some pointers to get you started. If you feel it's up your alley I'm sure others will respond as will I.

Good Luck
Ken Fisher

http://www.floridawoodfloors.net/jobweek6.htm

Apparently doityourself.com has allowed the use of images again, only by moderators. This one should give you an idea of how to start the project as I am assuming your underlying steps may be rough carpentry as shown in these images. Well I guess they have to turn on the image tags in this forum for it to work..



The existing nosing will have to be removed with a circular saw to install the new nosing.

 

Last edited by Hardwood Guy; 12-25-02 at 01:45 PM.
  #3  
Old 12-26-02, 05:54 AM
1AB
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Hardwood Guy, thanks for the reply on this busy holiday. I really wish the links you posted would work, that is what I was looking for, something to help me get started.

As you suggested, if I could afford it , I would have it done by a pro. I have built this 2,350sq' home, and the only thing I have hired done is the vinyl sideing and carpet in one bedroom. I am one of those people who are usually only pleased if I do the work myself, if it is within my abilitys. I am hopeing this project is within my means.

As you stated, the steps are curently rough construction, 2x12 treads with 3/4" pine board for the riser. There is no noesing on the rough treads.

I have read back to page 40 of 65 pages of past posts on this forum trying to get solid ideas on how to tackle these stairs. One person suggetsted in a past post to take the 2 1/4 x 3/4 plank, cut the tongue off, and run a 3/8" round over bit down top\bottom of plank.

Will this work? If it will work, this will save me aprox $200(minus 3/8 bit). By my calculations, the above process will leave 1 3/4", if I run the 3/4 riser all the way up to the bottom of the tread, this will leave 1" on the rough(2x) step.

How do I attach this, now rounded over, home made nosed tread? Countersink, screw, then use hardwoood dowell?

Also, I want to put a ? kick board(3/4 pine, and paint, can't aford oak) on the walls between the stairs, assuming I can do this, how tight do I make the treads to this kickboard? There is no way I can figure to trim around the round nose, so what ever clearance is left is permanent?

I am not after perfection here, just something useable, solid, and decent looking equal to the effort I put into it!

Thanks again, any useable links, posts, pics, or coments will be greatly appreciated...

Later


p.s. There is a lot of good readeing mat. on this site, ain't the net amazing!!!
 
  #4  
Old 12-26-02, 02:43 PM
H
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Mr. One AB:

Copy and paste the urls offered in my last message if you're familiar with doing so...or you'll have to do as I did when I was a newbie at all of this...write it down and key it into your browser bar. Lotta infromation there with at least 20 pics of one job...half dozen dealing with steps. Personally I'd go with real nosing and not any home made stuff.

"how tight do I make the treads to this kickboard?" As tight as possbile. Btw the job at the link was 3/4" painted white birch plywood for the risers. Everything was glued to eliminate top nailing.

www.floridawoodfloors.net/jobweek6.htm

Btw. The job I'm referring to can be found at the "Job Of The Week" link below. Location: Tampa, Florida
 
  #5  
Old 12-27-02, 12:31 AM
SteveOfloors
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The advantage to using a "real" stair nose is the overhang built into the bottom, where it overhangs the riser. This gives you a little fudge factor in the fitting, and keeps the reveal, or overhang unform.
I have had to make my own stairnose( as you desrcibed) a time or two, and it is more time consuming, but workable. You will find it easier installing the steps( if you go this way) by working from the top, down. Also, if you rip the edge of the riser where it will butt the overhanging stairnose at a 30 to 45 degree angle, it will butt up a little easier. Make sure when doing that first tred that you allow for the thickness of the riser, be it 3/4 oak, or 1/4 mdf painted white, when you set your overhang.
Fasten the stairnose with a good quality construction adhesive, and nail into the stair horse's (or stringers). Also using kickers will make for a cleaner installation, as they are easier to fit to then sheetrock! Once the stairnose is in place, use the same angel trick to fit to the kickers, as you did between the riser and stairnose.
 
  #6  
Old 12-27-02, 04:12 AM
1AB
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Guyes, thanks for the responses, you have given me some good pointers to get started, Wish me luck!!!

Ken, good pics in your "Job of the Week" link, and thanks for the info. I pasted the links you provided but never could get anything but a "error" page. I would really like to be able to get to these sites!

Do these "URL" s work for any of you guyes, or is it my browser?

Anyway, thanks again,

Later...
 
  #7  
Old 12-27-02, 05:00 AM
H
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Don't use all of the tags seen above. Just use http....htm and what's in between. The pics are in the Tampa Job Of the Week
 
  #8  
Old 12-27-02, 10:47 AM
RealWoodFloors
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1AB,

Flush the rough stairway riser with the front edge of 2X12. You can buy 3 1/4" or 5"#2 t&g to make your nosing if If you have more time than money. On painted risers I some times use 8"X12' or 16' smooth masonite siding. On the botom of nosing behind the roundsover make a 1/4"deep groove the width of the masonite. Usually 7/16". Like Steve said, start from the top and work down. Size your tread boards so they end with the groove aprox. 1/16" past 2X12. Measure from next 2X12 to bottom of nosing and rip the riser 3/16" larger. Put const. adhesive on face of rough stairway riser. Slide riser into groove and push riser flush. Toe nail your first piece of flooring tight to riser. This will hold it for adhesive to dry. Continue down the stairs the same way. Prepaint the riser before instalation and then all you will have is touch up paint when you are done.

AL
 
 

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