removing glue from old flooring


  #1  
Old 01-04-03, 10:51 AM
ra9613
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Question removing glue from old flooring

I have a lot of used Maple flooring that I am trying to clean up to make a butcher block counter top. I have no problem removing the varnish on the flooring but the tongue and grooves are filled with years of glue and finish that is giving me a problem. I have ruines two router bits attempting to remove this. Pleaselet me know if there is an easy way to remove this without ruining any more equipment or the boards.

Thanks, ra9613
 
  #2  
Old 01-05-03, 05:32 AM
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Sounds like you doing it the easy way, it is just costing you router bits.

If the glue and gunk is crystalized, scraping with a dull knife might get enough off to be easier on your router bits for the final clean up.
 
  #3  
Old 01-29-03, 05:17 PM
ccarruth
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removing previous finish

You may want to try using a radial or table saw to remove a thin layer of finish and wood. I am doing the same thing you are, except on used red oak flooring. I am using a radial saw, quite successfully, to skim off a small layer of wood on all sides, and will then finish by running them through a joiner or planer for the final step.

The advantage of this approach is that it does not eat up blades, knives, or bits. The disadvantage is the extra time it takes to do all these steps.

Also, most table saws and radials are not meant to take off such small amounts. My radial saw handbook says nothing less than 2.5", although I am taking off a fraction of that. You must use all safeguards, and keep the workarea clear of debris. Otherwise, it is smooth sailing.
 
  #4  
Old 01-30-03, 10:28 AM
brickeyee
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Are you using carbide router bits? The steel ones are usually low grade these days and do not stand up to hardwoods, let alone hardened finishes.
 
  #5  
Old 01-30-03, 12:17 PM
ccarruth
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milling used flooring

I have not gotten to the router stage yet. Remember we are only talking about taking a fraction of an inch off at that stage, probably no more than 1/16". The milling via the RAS, using an 80 tooth carbide furniture blade, does almost all of the real work. The router is only used to finish the process.

Will let the board know the final result.
 
 

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