Kitchen Floor - Laminate - glue or glueless

I want to install a laminate floor over an existing vinyl floor in my kitchen/dining room. Most of the laminate flooring that I find now is glueless. I was wondering if I should still glue a glueless flooring because when I clean the floor with water and a mop wouldn't water, even if its minimal, seep in the cracks between the planks. I have installed a glued laminate floor in my foyer and I love it.

 

If you don't follow the manufacturer's specifications for installing laminate you will lose any hope of a warranty claim. My understanding is that the click-lock type floors are not to be glued. FYI-be VERY VERY careful mopping your floors. If you use anything other than a slightly damp mop/sweep/rag you will definitely ruin the floor. Laminate is about as water tolerant as real hardwood and once laminte is runied it cannot be refinished. If the manufacturer thinks you cleaned your floors with a wet mop then your warranty will be void as well.

 

Most ,if not all laminate floor warrantee statements specifically prohibit to use of a wet mop, soap and water or wax of any kind. It might be a good idea to check the instructions and warrantee "fine print" before you buy to be certain that your expectations can be realized with a laminate product.

 

If you glue the glueless stuff, you'll ruin it. Even the older glue together stuff couldn't be mopped with a wet mop, so not much has changed there, although the glueless is probably even less tolerant of moisture. If you're worried about moisture, there are brands of laminate that have wax impregnated joints that help resist moisture problems. Witex does this, as do a few others I'm sure.

 

I want to install a laminate floor over an existing vinyl floor in my kitchen/dining room. Most of the laminate flooring that I find now is glueless.

You might consider a product rated for occasional moisture contact, like Formica Ceramix, or a higher end wood-core product with wax impregnated edges, like Wilsonart EstatePlus.

Here's the installation manual, in .pdf form, for EstatePlus. It does have instructions for installing the product in high moisture content areas like kitchens, etc. using Wilsonart flooring adhesive to seal edges. It also advises a perimeter seal of silicone caulk to inhibit moisture intrusion but yet allow for expansion and contraction.

We're in the midst of an install of the Wilsonart product, in our living room, and I'll comment further once completed. We decided to go with epoxy aggregate floor in our kitchen and other areas of the house, as it is price competetive with laminate and is more forgiving of subfloor/moisture issues. We liked the richness of the wood look in the living room and thought the laminate would achieve this end at a modest price.

BTW, be sure to check the soundness of your vinyl. Adhesion to the subfloor and flatness are crucial for a good result, IMO. We found poor adhesion in our kitchen vinyl and will have to remove it prior to the aggregate install.

Good luck with your project!

Pat

 

Recently at a homeshow I was talking with a rep from Wilsonart. He said that in a wet area -- kitchen, bathroom -- he recommended gluing the edges of the planks on the non-glue type Wilsonart laminate -- as long as you used Wilsonart glue. He said that would help in waterproofing the floor.

 

Did my kitchen last year with no-glue Armstrong Naures Gallery Ceramic look. The install instructions recommend glue for wet areas. I used the Armstrong glue on top of the tonge only with no problems at all. Its been a year and we love it. With 3 kids and a dog, believe me it gets wet. Besides, how can you properly clean a floor without getting it wet. Very important: Seal the perimeter with silicone caulk so a spill will not wet the edge of the plank. Also, make sure the floor is as flat as possible.

Anthony

 

Most manufactures have a glue for glueless floors in wet areas. Remember, when installing laminates in wet areas, always seal your exterior expansion joint with 100% silicone caulk.

 

No arguement intended but please be advised that the well known snap warrantees are void if glue is used in a glueless joint. The reason is two fold. The joints are made so tight that glue will cause a hydraulic pressure that will cause the joint to expand and fail. Secondly the joints are waxed to resist moisture and most folks will agree that glue doesn't stick to wax.

 

I can't speak to the other brands but I do know for a fact that the Wilsonart manual calls out a glue modification for Estate + and Classic whereby a bead of Wilsonart adhesive is installed at a specific location upon the tongue prior to fitup. The manual I noted above specifically shows a picture and verbage to that effect.

I suggest, whenever contemplating a laminate purchase, especially for a kitchen and/or bathroom, research the parameters of the install carefully, including perusing the installation manual thoroughly. Doing so prior to even purchasing our laminate saved me many a installation day headache.

Baseboards went in today and end stops are cut and ready to be adhered to the concrete. Epoxy aggregate arrives in 13 days to finish out this marathon....By the time this is over, I'll be a plumber, rough and finish carpenter and mason . Flooring installer maybe too...

Pat