routing shoe molding for laminate install

Old 11-20-03, 07:13 PM
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
routing shoe molding for laminate install

Looking to DIY intall laminate flooring for my father. He had somebody come out and bid the job and they recommended basically trimming a rabet from the shoe molding to place the flooring under and trimming the same from the brick hearth rather than putting up a piece of quarter round. (The quarter round wouldn't look right based on where it has to go) Would be concerned about trying to remove the shoe molding to replace later due to sheet rock damage (one job at a time). Just curious if anybody has heard of/tried this method before and if so, what tool do you use. I have racked my brain and can't figure out what would do it (without a high probability for error anyway). Thanks in advance for any help.
Old 11-21-03, 10:53 AM
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ca
Posts: 747
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
I think when you say shoe molding you really mean baseboard (the wide board that goes against the drywall). Shoe molding never goes directly on the drywall and quarter round and shoe molding can be the same thing except that sometimes shoemolding has a different profile.

Putting in the new floor w/o removing the baseboard, then covering the gap with quarter round is the way to do it "on the cheap". This is the way the warehouse stores do usually do it.

If you do not want to put in quarter round, putting a rabbet in the baseboard is an interesting idea but I don't see how you can do this while it is installed with a router or any other tool (I suppose a Crain under cut saw could cut the bottom off but it would look like hell afterwards). You can easily remove baseboard by first using a box cutter to score the paint/caulk where the base meets the drywall. Then use a prybar backed with piece of wood to pry it off. Even if you damage the wall, the base will cover it since it will be higher when you re-install.

To re-install, use the old nail holes as a reference since that is where the studs should be (an air nailer makes thing go fast). Then re-caulk the wall to base joint and the corners, touch up your paint and you are all set.

The issue with the brick fireplace was recently discussed at length, please search on it.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Your question will be posted in: