Replacing part of a parquet floor

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  #1  
Old 12-17-03, 12:35 PM
The Mule
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Replacing part of a parquet floor

I have a light colored parquet floor in my living room that I have always wanted to darken. I considered my options for sanding and re-staining, and it all seemed too messy and labor intensive. Then I thought perhaps I could just replace the parquet tiles with darker parquet tiles... Being on an a very low budget, I thought I would only change the tiles that are exposed and leave the ones that are under rugs, etc., as they are. The areas of old tiles will be left in the center, covered by rugs that I really don't think will ever be moved.

So... How hard a job is this? I've read some articles that make it sound like a pretty easy DIY job. Also, can anyone recommend a good source for parquet tiles? Should I just check the local Home Depot?

Thanks in advance!
The Mule
 
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  #2  
Old 12-19-03, 03:53 PM
BobsRemodeling
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Unhappy Replace parquet flooring?

Hi Mule,
I was wondering....replace? Parquet floor tiles are most always glued down. Removal and the preparation for attaching new tiles would run into more work than refinishing. If your budget is not too low you can install over the old, providing those tiles are in fairly good shape.
Good luck,
Bob
 
  #3  
Old 12-19-03, 05:12 PM
The Mule
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Is it really that much work? I pried up a few tiles just to see what was underneath, and they came up relatively easily. The glue might be tough to scrape off though. How do you recommend removing it?

I suppose I could go on top of the old tiles, as they are in pretty good shape, but that would mean I'd have to do the entire room, rather than just the sections that I wanted to replace...

Thanks for your input!
 
  #4  
Old 12-19-03, 05:24 PM
florcraft
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You got lucky if they come up easy, best to remove all and replace with new, unless you have extra left over from the original job.
 
  #5  
Old 12-19-03, 05:34 PM
BobsRemodeling
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Talking Glue removal

Well....a wood/paint scraper or a wide razor may do the trick on the glue removal. If your sub-floor is plywood, use caution and pull with the grain of the wood or else it will splinter/gouge and could make the new tile sit uneven. The other problem with replacing select tiles is that parquet tiles interlock on the sides as well.

Bob
 
  #6  
Old 12-19-03, 06:02 PM
The Mule
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Yes, it is plywood underneath - I'll be very careful with it.

The new tiles will be laid from the center of the room (around an island of the old tiles) and going to the wall. So I should be able to manage with the interlocking tongues & grooves. In the event that I have to, would it be ok to saw the tongues off a few tiles so that I can fit them into the spaces? It would only be a few of them (if any).

Thanks again!
 
  #7  
Old 12-19-03, 06:07 PM
The Mule
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Ah, I thought of one other question... I was wondering about the roller. Are these rentable from flooring shops? I dread the thought of carrying a 150 lb. roller on the subway!

I've been reading that you can use a rolling pin, but how do you put all of your weight on a rolling pin? Seems like it could be tricky at best doing it that way.
 
  #8  
Old 12-19-03, 06:58 PM
BobsRemodeling
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Parquet flooring

The tounge and grooves on some tiles can be removed if needed, but they play an important part of the stability of the floor as a whole. Be sure to follow the glue manufacturers recomendations as well as the parquet floor manufacturers. As far as the use of a roller....I have not used one on parquet installations. When setting the tiles back on the well cleaned areas, all that is required is pressing the tile into the glue firmly. Be sure to use the proper notching on the trowel when applying the glue. See the recomendations on the box for the flooring. Use only glue recomended by the flooring manufacturer to not void any warranties.

Bob
 
  #9  
Old 12-19-03, 09:10 PM
The Mule
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Thanks so much for your help, Bob. I plan on tackling this project right after the holiday.
The Mule
 
  #10  
Old 12-19-03, 09:34 PM
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If you got a few tiles up easily, then your floor may not be as good as you think. Sounds like the glue might be going - or it wasn't put down well in the first place.
 
  #11  
Old 12-21-03, 10:31 AM
mallain
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From one DIY to another

I pulled up the parquet floor in my front entry way about 2 weeks ago. And I can tell you that I would think twice before ever pulling one up again. The glue used under our parquet must have been super glue (just kidding) because I ended up tearing up the plywood floor under the parquet just trying to get it all out. I only had about 70 Sq. ft of flooring to remove but it took me all day one Saturday to get the floor up and then a trip to a building supply store to get new plywood to replace what got messed up. I had a sore back and brused palms using a crowbar to get it up. I have heard there are tools that are powered and can help to scrap up the parquet and that might be a better option if you have a lot of flooring to remove.
 
  #12  
Old 12-21-03, 02:05 PM
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Well, I guess the glue is holding up

Are you still sure you don't want to sand and refinish the parquet? True, it's a messy job, but it may be easier than replacing.
 
  #13  
Old 12-21-03, 10:23 PM
The Mule
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I've already started the job... The tiles aren't too bad coming up. I'm just going slowly, and using a slotted screwdriver & hammer to gently pry them up. Will get back to it next weekend.

Does anyone know a good source to order parquet tiles online? I'm in NYC, and without a car, it's always very appealing (and often much cheaper) to find things online if I can. I'm looking for a dark brown tile. My local Home Depot didn't have anything darker than the Bruce "Chestnut." Any ideas?

Thanks again & Happy Holidays,
The Mule
 
  #14  
Old 12-22-03, 04:47 PM
florcraft
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Are you sure you want to trust color to your computer screen? Hopefully they will ship a sample to you if you find a site.
I am a big fan of full service flooring stores. There should be plenty near you.
 
  #15  
Old 12-29-03, 07:04 AM
The Mule
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OK... I'm in the midst of pulling up the tiles. They are coming up fairly easily. A few splinters taken out of the plywood subfloor, but not too bad.

The part that has become the hardest is scraping off the old adhesive. I'm using a paint scraper and some mineral spirits, but it's really tough going. Any other suggestions on how to get the stuff off?
 
  #16  
Old 12-29-03, 01:44 PM
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It's messy, but a belt sander with a coarse belt (60 grit) will make quick work of the glue. You'll probably go thru a few belts but it will get the job done. Since it's subfloor, it doesn't have to be pretty - just reasonably smooth.

It really helps to have someone hold a vacuum cleaner hose near the sander while you're sanding.
 
  #17  
Old 12-29-03, 02:05 PM
The Mule
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Good idea, Dave - thank you. I'll see if I can track a belt sander down. I've been pouring on a little mineral spirits, letting it sit for a few minutes and then scraping away. It's working, but it's wearing me out. Gotta love power tools!

I'm also curious about different qualities of parquet tiles. I'm looking at the Hartco Windsor (it's a nice dark brown tile). I've seen it at $2.75 per sq. ft. for what is called "builder grade." The more expensive grade goes for more like $5-6 per sq. ft. The difference in the warranty is 10 yrs. for builder grade, 25 for the other. I'd save mucho dinero by getting the builder grade, but is the other stuff really that much better? Or would the builder grade be fine for a lightly trafficked living room. My thinking was that the more expensive stuff was rated for commercial use or something?
 
  #18  
Old 12-29-03, 04:00 PM
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Can't help you with parquet flooring. The last time I worked with it was about 10 yrs ago when I was repairing some bad spots for the homeowner who had installed it in the '70's. He was still wearing polyester slacks and a white belt, too -
 
  #19  
Old 12-29-03, 05:29 PM
The Mule
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That's a smart sounding outfit.

Maybe someone else can answer my question about builder grade parquet tiles.

Also, I've got a can of Henry 416 Parquet Adhesive, which presumably would have been used to lay these tiles originally (the can was in the closet when I moved in). I'm wondering if this adhesive will be fine for my new installation. I'll be using Hartco tiles. There's no need to buy Hartco adhesive is there?
 
  #20  
Old 12-30-03, 11:00 AM
florcraft
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The adhesive is probably ok, the can should tell you the experation date depending on weather or not it has been opened.
Builder grade parquet will have a thinner wear layer, and possibly a lower grade wood.
A better parquet will have a thicker wear layer, and maybe better grade wood, plus some high end parquet has an impregnated finish, in other words, the stain goes all the way thru the wood, so no need for staining ever again.
 
  #21  
Old 01-02-04, 03:03 PM
The Mule
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Arg!!!

I completed the first segment of the floor on Wednesday. I'm doing it in sections so as not to disturb the living room too much, which is keeping me in the good graces of my significant other (Mrs. Mule)...

Anyhow, I was pulling up tiles today in the second segment, and reached a point where the previous owners of the apartment did a real botch job. They had torn up the the floor and the subfloor all the way down to the concrete slab, and had filled it back in with some sort of crumbly compound. I had always noticed how the floor was not level at that spot. Anyhow, an area of about 4' by 2' went all the way down to the concrete slab, and in the surrounding area of about 7' by 4', the 1/8" plywood (which I had been gluing the tiles to) just ripped up completely, leaving what looks like the original parquet job underneath (foam backed and installed directly on the concrete).

So, I've already filled the hole that went down to the concrete, using 5/8" plywood scraps that I had on hand. But now I need to make up 1/8" where the 1/8" ply ripped up. I believe there is something called luan which comes in 1/8" sheets. Should I use that? How would I go about attaching it? With the parquet adhesive? Or should I screw it to the parquet underneath? I'd have to use 1/2" screws.

Anyone?
 

Last edited by The Mule; 01-02-04 at 03:28 PM.
  #22  
Old 01-02-04, 06:34 PM
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If you need to make up 3/4", try to do it with 3/4" plywood instead of "stacking" 5/8" plus 1/8". You'll get a better job.
 
  #23  
Old 01-02-04, 07:18 PM
The Mule
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That certainly makes sense. It means I'll have to tear up more of the subfloor, but ultimately will be better... Thanks again. This board has been a BIG help on this project! Thanks again, Dave.
 
  #24  
Old 01-02-04, 07:28 PM
The Mule
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Also... I used the parquet adhesive to attach the plywood to the concrete slab. It seems to be holding just fine. Is that the proper way to do it, or is there a better way?
 
  #25  
Old 12-19-05, 07:25 AM
1292005
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Sinking Parquet Floor

Hi:

I have a sinking parquet floor (as background, the living room was extended out to the balcony) in the middle of the room. Has anyone heard of this problem or can guesstimate as to the cause of the problem? Can it be fixed?

FYI it is not an issue of buckling or loosening of the parquet squares.

Thanks.
 
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