Has anyone installed Pergo Presto on stairs?

Has anyone installed Pergo Presto laminate on stairs? I am going to install Pergo Presto in my stepdown living and I wanted to see if I could also install it on the stair (10'ft wide) leading down to my living room. I have tile on the floor around my sunken living room so I would probably have to use a transition (stair molding) down into the stairs.

I know Pergo makes stair molding which can be used on the stairs but I haven't read about it being used with Presto. Can I use this molding with Pergo Presto?

Also I would be installing it on the landing and riser of the stair , so do i glue the planks with an adhesive (liquid nail) or do i just "float" them?

If anyone has installed Prego Presto on stairs can you please give me insight on what I need to do ...

Thanks beforehand,
Gil

 

Yikes! Not a place to start practicing, but I hope you get your instructions and all goes well. Theres lots of things to consider to make them look good, keep us informed huh?
I know presto (home depot name) can be installed on stairs using stairnose. You just need instructions, and some extra planks for replacement

 

Florcraft,

Thanks for the response. It will not be my first pergo job so it shouldn't be to bad. I just had never installed it on stairs and I have been out to pergo site for instructions on installing laminate on statirs but no reference was made to Presto on stairs. So I thought maybe it wasn't possible.

I also noticed the stair moldings are only about 6.5 ft and my long stair leading down to my living room is 10 ft wide. So I will have to do something there to make it look good. Maybe 2 cuts to the sides and a long strip in the middle or maybe a cut down the middle. Any suggestions?


Thanks,
Gil

 

i have put floating floors on steps a few times and usually what we do is use a brad nailer with 1"1/4 brads and nail them down I dont know if this is the proper way but it has been working for use for a few years if you float them the boards they will move as you walk down the stairs. also when you do your molding if you have a compound miter saw lay the trim down flat and angle your blade at a 45deg angle this makes a better looking seam than butting them together

 

The Pergo molding is universal but that won't help on a 10' wide stair. I would suggest that you use a natural wood (species optional) molding that is stained and finished to match your flooring. This may not be a DIY project. The planks on the treads must be securely fastened to the substrate. The risers may float behind moldings and the plank on the stair below. The bottom riser can be "trapped" behind 1/4 round on the lower level floor. A ten or 12 foot molding can be made by a local wood molding company or in some cases a local woodworker or cabinet shop. I make special moldings on a router table for my use but a shop may prefer using a molding machine. Many pro installers have a source for molding such as are needed here. They are not as costly as one might suppose but a source could be difficult for a homeowner.

 

So you can't place 2 stair moldings next to each to cover my 10'ft stair? Has anyone done anything like this before?

Gil

 

Sure you could use 2 moldings, and there would be a line where they come together, but thats no big deal.

Azfred is a wealth of info, but I must disagree with his suggestion of using real wood molding on a Pergo floor. I think it looks like total crud, but you could always give it a shot, it will allow you to buy bigger trim, but the look (blech!)

 

Florcraft, it is common practice to stain hardwood for a dead match of wood grains down here. If the flooring is a stone print, that's another story. In fact I use stained real wood moldings as often as possible in high traffic areas because laminate moldings have such a low value test rating. The tabor test value of paper (laminate) wrapped moldings is about 400 and the flooring is 7,000 to 10,500 depending on brand. The stained and finished moldings can be refinished while the wrapped must be replaced. The use of 2 pieces will leave a somewhat cut up appearance but the motive for stained to match is a neat finished application at substancially less money. Have you checked to cost of stain grade or custom moldings against wrapped moldings lately? The difficult part is the finishing skill set, but for a DIY patience and time will offet what the pro can do quickly.

 

Azfred, no argument on the durability and ease of install, and maybe your part of the country likes the look.
But after checking with my A.S.D.I. designer and seeing my self some examples, I think it is something that requires a pro like yourself to add skills to accomplish a good look. I am sure it is possible for it to look good, but I would suggest seeing a sample before deciding.

 

Florcraft, Please take this as healthy discussion and not bickering. A hardwood pro will definetly be more at ease with the stain and finish as you suggest, but I've seen serious DIY'ers and woodworking hobbists do a pretty good job in the finish area. It may be time consuming for them but I'm sometimes amazed at what a focused person can accomplish, given time and assistance, often from forums such as this one or a woodworking forum directed at the finishing operation.

For your enlightenment check out stain and finish with a craftsman such as your local pro woodworker or cabinet maker instead your designer. One is into intellectual pursuits and the other is into manual skills. I'm sure that Gil will make the right call for himself.

 

okee dokee.

I would love to see some great pics from a craftsman, so I can show some DIY'ers what is possible.

Like I said, the trims are overpriced and not as durable.
I have seen real wood with lam, but apparently it wasn't done by someone who has much skill.

how bout them pics next time you do it?