laminate floor in bathroom

Hi folks;
Even though I read alot here this is my first time posting in this particular section of this great forum.
I have a older house (1923) with two half bathrooms (sink and commode only). I have refinished them and my half is done now comes the asthetics (aggravation and ulcers!). ;-) On a trip to the Orange Box my better half saw laminate flooring and is considering how it would look. Now we(?) are considering installing laminate flooring in these bathrooms. Is that feasible for a bathroom?
If so, any suggestions as to mftgs, quality and price. I am fairly handy and do a lot myself and these are small areas.
Like to get some info before ulcers return or I become follically challenged due to overuse of hands and hair! LOL!

 

This question has come up several times in this forum. Laminate flooring will work fine in bathrooms (or kitchens) if you take precautions to keep water from standing on it.

Don't track water on it (dry off in the shower) and wipe up any that gets on the floor.

 

Thanks Dave for your reply. I thought I had read it before but couldn't refind the questions/answers. As these are throne/ reading room only(LOL!) bathrooms I guess it would be okay to use.
Any ideas on mftg. quality? From what I gather here not to many are enthused with Presto.
Thanks again for your prompt reply.

 

Think this through before you buy. How will you finish out around or under your "throne"? You may need a new wax ring installed. If you have pipes coming up through the floor they will definetly limit movement of a floating floor. I suspect that you may have plumbing routed that way in a house of the age of yours. The Pergo Presto is fine, the joinery is the best and it contains a wax dip to help ward off moisture. That said most moisture damage to laminate floors is from underneath not from the top although moisture intrusion is possible from the top or floor surface. Powder room baths have a higher success rate than full baths but excess moisture is a risk.

 

Hi AZ!
I was pondering that as I am completely in the dark as to the expansion/contraction factor of the product. I was contemplating tempoarily removing the toilet and installing the boards to within 1/4 or 1/2 inch of the soil pipe. Doing circular cuts ( if feasible) around the soil pipe then reinstalling the toilet with a new wax ring. If not possible, due to board width, I would go to the same measurements to the soil pipe , plumbers putty that amount and then continue the board on the other side of the pipe. The throne should cover the gap.
You are right in that I have a pipe rising, from the floor, 2 inches out from the wall to supply water to the toilet. I was thinking of the same idea there, but leaving room for the expansion and contraction of the board (1/4 inch?) this could be covered by a pipe estrunction.
If not, I guess it's back to the drawing boards and contemplation of tile! LOL!!! LOTS more work there! LOL!!!

 

you guys are making this sound really difficult ... I am a flooring installer and have put laminate in bathrooms before it is no diiferent than installing it in any other room.....yes you will have to pull the toilet and a new ring should always be put down after pulling one....when you get to your crap hole cut the baords a 1/4'" from your flange....on your supply line coming out of the floor if you get real lucky it might hit between 2 boards...if not you will need a hole saw to cut for the supply line take a piece of masking tape and put over the board before you use it... a good way to make sure water doesnt get under your floor is to caulk the bottom of your baseboard before you install it

 

rs0
Thanks for the reply. On my part a new wax ring is a given. That was what I had said in my reply, but I wasn't sure if the cut should be 1/4 away or what as I don't know the swell factors. Now I know! It's 1/4, LOL!!! As to the luck part for the pipe that is another factor I was considering.
BTW, any suggestions on which mftg product is good for this installation?

 

Bob; Keep the planks as far back from the wax ring as possible and still keep the ends hidden. Next load the space left under the stool with silicone. Heavy silicone around the feed pipes as well. If there are chrome trim flanges around the feed pipes that will allow a 1/2" or so, use it and hit the silicone again and good luck. Dont forget the gap around the edges of the floor and be sure of the FLATNESS of the subfloor.