Real Wood or Pre-engineered on Concrete?
#1
Real Wood or Pre-engineered on Concrete?
We have a concrete family room floor. Want to get rid of carpet and put in wood flooring. What is best, real wood or pre-engineered? Don't really want to put sub-floor down. I know you can refinish wood flooring multiple times and the pre-engineered only once. Not sure what to do at this point?
#2
There are many variables to making this choice including cost, effort and durability that you'll have to prioritize. I had to go through the same questions you face. Wanted to let you know that we ended up choosing a T&G engineered real wood flooring that allows up to 3 sandings. That's the marketing claim. I assume that I'll be able to do it once, maybe twice if necessary. It was not the cheapest but it was less expensive that 3/4" solid wood and I could lay it my self...also on a concrete slab. The flooring is in, it is prefinished and looks great.
#3
Glue down or put over a foam?
Ok, thanks. We're looking at a Mannington pre-engineered Brandywine Amber with a 25 year warranty on the finish. (About $5.55 per sq ft.) It's also pre finished and one place says to glue to the concrete. I really don't want to do this because it might me too tough to remove some day. Is it ok to put this floor over a foam type stuff? Thank you.
#4
Do a web search for Mannington Brandywine Amber. You'll find the installation specas somewhere!
Some engineered floors can be glued T&G, to float. Some have too loose of T&G to get good compression & adhesion.
Some engineered floors can be glued T&G, to float. Some have too loose of T&G to get good compression & adhesion.
#5
I would use an engineered floor to float over a moisture barrier. Plus it will have a little give to make it more comfy.
Nobody really knows how many sandings a wood can take. It depends on the scratches and the sander.
The thicker the top layer, the more sandings usually.
www.Kahrs.com
has one of the thickest engineered top layers in the business.
give em a try.
Nobody really knows how many sandings a wood can take. It depends on the scratches and the sander.
The thicker the top layer, the more sandings usually.
www.Kahrs.com
has one of the thickest engineered top layers in the business.
give em a try.
#6
How good is the Mannington floor?
The specs I saw said the Mannington can be glued to the concrete or floating.
How good is the Mannington 9/16" pre-engineered floor we picked out compare to say Kahrs.com? I've also read where you may get one sanding and refinishing out of the Mannington. Thats ok as long as the warranty of 25 years on the finish holds up? Thank you.
How good is the Mannington 9/16" pre-engineered floor we picked out compare to say Kahrs.com? I've also read where you may get one sanding and refinishing out of the Mannington. Thats ok as long as the warranty of 25 years on the finish holds up? Thank you.
#8
We went with a Harris Tarkett Longstrip (american collection). It too is 9/16" and has a 25-year warranty. It is available online for less than $5.55 but costs seem to add up by the time you add the extras
These extra costs are true for any product I see.

#9
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"I know you can refinish wood flooring multiple times and the pre-engineered only once"
A lot has happened in the hardwood flooring business in recent years. Yes some engineered products can only be refinished once, some none at all--BR111 5/15" engineered. One aspect few know when they state a product can withstand 2 or three complete refinishings is the subfloor. It has to be flat to be able to refinish. Humps and valleys cannot be refinished as consistantly as good as a flat floor.
There are some high end engineered products such as the Bruce Studio B that has the same wear layer as a 3/4" solid hardwood product. Many of us in the business dislike Bruce but this one is in a class of it's own. Milled outside of Bruce's common facilities, it's a top drawer engineered product--GLUEDOWN ONLY--Pricey? Yes--around $9.00 square foot.
Tarkett? I don't understand those folks thesedays. Now they're going with a thinner wear layer and gloss finishes. Mannington doesn't compare to Kahrs in my opinion, plus they have too many dreary looking rotary peeled products.
A lot has happened in the hardwood flooring business in recent years. Yes some engineered products can only be refinished once, some none at all--BR111 5/15" engineered. One aspect few know when they state a product can withstand 2 or three complete refinishings is the subfloor. It has to be flat to be able to refinish. Humps and valleys cannot be refinished as consistantly as good as a flat floor.
There are some high end engineered products such as the Bruce Studio B that has the same wear layer as a 3/4" solid hardwood product. Many of us in the business dislike Bruce but this one is in a class of it's own. Milled outside of Bruce's common facilities, it's a top drawer engineered product--GLUEDOWN ONLY--Pricey? Yes--around $9.00 square foot.
Tarkett? I don't understand those folks thesedays. Now they're going with a thinner wear layer and gloss finishes. Mannington doesn't compare to Kahrs in my opinion, plus they have too many dreary looking rotary peeled products.
#10
Why didn't you mention this Ken? Looks like an awesome product if you are OK with site finish. Price is hardly more than 3/4" solid!
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/har...lank_floor.htm
Also, of course I defer to Ken but IMO a slab gluedown is the most problem prone install and you are well advised to spend more on the product in these types of installs. The product should ideally be designed specifically for install over slab - not multipurpose. I'm really skeptical that a $5-6 per sq ft prefinished product will last.
Almost all of the newer houses where I live are slab and almost without exception I see obvious, glaring defects show up on the cheaper products after a few years(huge gaps, cupping). On the other hand, a friend of mine installed a glue down product for $10+ per sq (incl labor) and it has no defects after 6 years.
A perfectionist installer I know recommended Kentucky Wood Floor products. They have a product designed solely for slab with a 1/4" wear layer, prefinished(eased edges) or unfinished(square or eased edes). They seem to be a small supplier and I have no experience with them good or bad. I'm told the product is expensive.
http://www.kentuckywood.com/plank&strip.htm
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/har...lank_floor.htm
Also, of course I defer to Ken but IMO a slab gluedown is the most problem prone install and you are well advised to spend more on the product in these types of installs. The product should ideally be designed specifically for install over slab - not multipurpose. I'm really skeptical that a $5-6 per sq ft prefinished product will last.
Almost all of the newer houses where I live are slab and almost without exception I see obvious, glaring defects show up on the cheaper products after a few years(huge gaps, cupping). On the other hand, a friend of mine installed a glue down product for $10+ per sq (incl labor) and it has no defects after 6 years.
A perfectionist installer I know recommended Kentucky Wood Floor products. They have a product designed solely for slab with a 1/4" wear layer, prefinished(eased edges) or unfinished(square or eased edes). They seem to be a small supplier and I have no experience with them good or bad. I'm told the product is expensive.
http://www.kentuckywood.com/plank&strip.htm
Last edited by AlexH; 08-04-04 at 07:04 PM.
#11
Originally Posted by AlexH
Almost all of the newer houses where I live are slab and almost without exception I see obvious, glaring defects show up on the cheaper products after a few years(huge gaps, cupping). On the other hand, a friend of mine installed a glue down product for $10+ per sq (incl labor) and it has no defects after 6 years.
Huge gaps and cupping are not manufacture related claims. They are site conditions and installation related! New construction says it all!!!!
The wood is put in before the slab is dry enough for any flooring, much less wood, that is effect by moisture. Cheap or high dollar, it is going to fail when the slab is pumping out more them my concrete moisture meter will read.
#13
You end up crying in about a month!
You could use Taylor Adhesives, concrete moisture sealer and cross link adhesive system, and get a full replacement warranty.
Franklin adhesives makes a moisture sealer to use with their adhesives.
You could use Taylor Adhesives, concrete moisture sealer and cross link adhesive system, and get a full replacement warranty.
Franklin adhesives makes a moisture sealer to use with their adhesives.