Installing laminate flooring
#1
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Installing laminate flooring
Is this really a do-it-yourself project? I have a kitchen floor with excellent shape linoleum floor and I would like to cover with the glueless snap in place kind of laminate flooring. I know there is a cloth underlayment, but is there any pitfalls to doing this yourself? I have sanded hardwood floors and installed ceramic floor tile before---is it any harder to do laminate?
#2
They all have there own little quirks and secrets to them once you know them you can do this succesfully on you're own.Probably a little easier than tile ,so if you have the patience for tile then you can do this.
Make sure there are no deppressions or crowns in the floor as it is not as for giving as the vinyl is,also when it calls for gaps then give it the space it needs,don't make anything snug or tight it will come back to haunt you later
Make sure there are no deppressions or crowns in the floor as it is not as for giving as the vinyl is,also when it calls for gaps then give it the space it needs,don't make anything snug or tight it will come back to haunt you later

#3
Before rolling out the underlayment cushion, be sure you totally understand and follow the instructions that come in the cartons. I mean totally understand them!!! Not "I think they mean" or "my subfloor looks flat to me"
#4
Based on your previous experience, I would think that this is something you could handle.
Being a 1st time laminate and cork installer on my own home, IT IS imperative that your sub-floor is flat. Not neccessarilly level, but FLAT. That is the 1st and most important part of a laminate/cork install.
If it looks flat, it probably isnt........!!
Flat is...for the most part...(generally speaking..and relative to the Mfgr's specs...is) ..
"To bring the subfloor up to the flatness specifications. 1/8 inch in 6 feet or 3/16 inch in 10 feet. That is pretty flat!"
.
And generally, that is what most Mfgr's specify.
Many Mfgr's say you can lay a 'floating' click floor on linolium. That (linolium, in itself), is an acceptable sub-floor.
Just check...and double check, that your floor is up to spec....then you shouldnt have much of a problem.
My only concern, is applying Laminate in a kitchen application...- Concerns, water................
That is the main culprete in a laminate install in a kitchen.....tho many have done so.
Being a 1st time laminate and cork installer on my own home, IT IS imperative that your sub-floor is flat. Not neccessarilly level, but FLAT. That is the 1st and most important part of a laminate/cork install.
If it looks flat, it probably isnt........!!
Flat is...for the most part...(generally speaking..and relative to the Mfgr's specs...is) ..
"To bring the subfloor up to the flatness specifications. 1/8 inch in 6 feet or 3/16 inch in 10 feet. That is pretty flat!"
.
And generally, that is what most Mfgr's specify.
Many Mfgr's say you can lay a 'floating' click floor on linolium. That (linolium, in itself), is an acceptable sub-floor.
Just check...and double check, that your floor is up to spec....then you shouldnt have much of a problem.
My only concern, is applying Laminate in a kitchen application...- Concerns, water................
That is the main culprete in a laminate install in a kitchen.....tho many have done so.
#5
What to do about cracks in slab
My slab has a good size crack in it and I'd like to lay a pergo laminate floor in the room but need advice of what needs to be done or even advisable.
Should I go the route of grinding and using a leveler concrete over my slab before installing a moisture guard and underlayment? Is cork an advisable underlayment?
Or should I create a subfloor with plywood? Or could I get away with laying a stiff plastic sheet over the crack to dampen the edge?
Any help is appreciated.
Should I go the route of grinding and using a leveler concrete over my slab before installing a moisture guard and underlayment? Is cork an advisable underlayment?
Or should I create a subfloor with plywood? Or could I get away with laying a stiff plastic sheet over the crack to dampen the edge?
Any help is appreciated.
#6

Sounds like you have the experience needed. I have just finished my living room. I will pass on these tips, take them or leave them.
#1 buy good lam. 10mm
#2 Lay out a section going across the room to make sure that you are not left with a sliver. Then rip your starting course accordingly.
#3 there are two types of underlay, ( both foam) buy the better of the two ( green one here in Canada) It makes the sound when you walk on the floor sound deeper more like real hardwood.
#1 buy good lam. 10mm
#2 Lay out a section going across the room to make sure that you are not left with a sliver. Then rip your starting course accordingly.
#3 there are two types of underlay, ( both foam) buy the better of the two ( green one here in Canada) It makes the sound when you walk on the floor sound deeper more like real hardwood.
#7
How large a crack in your floor....and is the rest of the floor 'flat'?
If your floor is flat (as per the specs mentioned) everywhere else, you could fill that crack with either a cement based or plaster based floor leveling compound. I found the plaster based kind drys faster.
I used that to fill some voids in the floor's original tiles...some pieces that came up when I removed the glued down carpet.
If your floor is really outta wack, I would go the route of a SLC...(self leveling compound).
As far as your underlay goes, used what Pergo recommends. This ensures youre using their stuff so as not to void any warranty issues.
What room is this going into.....?
I dont know if cork itself, is a viable underlay.....
However cork plack flooring could be. That has a cork backing built into the planks...We installed that in our kitchen and guest bathroom.. Looks really good.
We went with UniClick 800 series laminate in the LR/DR/halls and office...and on concrete slab, HAD to use the Toryls 'combination' underlay, which acted as an underlay and vapor barrier in one. On a concrete slab, you will need a vapour barrier....and as mentioned on this board, you may want to do the vapor barrier test....
Hope this helps....
If your floor is flat (as per the specs mentioned) everywhere else, you could fill that crack with either a cement based or plaster based floor leveling compound. I found the plaster based kind drys faster.
I used that to fill some voids in the floor's original tiles...some pieces that came up when I removed the glued down carpet.
If your floor is really outta wack, I would go the route of a SLC...(self leveling compound).
As far as your underlay goes, used what Pergo recommends. This ensures youre using their stuff so as not to void any warranty issues.
What room is this going into.....?
I dont know if cork itself, is a viable underlay.....
However cork plack flooring could be. That has a cork backing built into the planks...We installed that in our kitchen and guest bathroom.. Looks really good.
We went with UniClick 800 series laminate in the LR/DR/halls and office...and on concrete slab, HAD to use the Toryls 'combination' underlay, which acted as an underlay and vapor barrier in one. On a concrete slab, you will need a vapour barrier....and as mentioned on this board, you may want to do the vapor barrier test....
Hope this helps....
#8
Re> What to do about cracks in slab
Thanks for the advice. The lower portion of the house is on a slab, it's a guest room with bath next to the wash room and garage. Currently I'm only considering the 380 sq feet guest room as I'm hesitant about moisture from the bathroom on laminate.
I'd really like to install a Pergo laminate due to the traffic, but this crack differs in height by about 1/2 inch parallel to the planks due to the '89 Loma Prieta earthquake. I've never used self leveling concrete before. Will this smooth out the difference without future problems, or do I need to grind the slab first?
This is what we're currently looking at http://************/4vmg7
Or is there a better recommendation? Should I look at something thicker?
Thanks for the advice!
I'd really like to install a Pergo laminate due to the traffic, but this crack differs in height by about 1/2 inch parallel to the planks due to the '89 Loma Prieta earthquake. I've never used self leveling concrete before. Will this smooth out the difference without future problems, or do I need to grind the slab first?
This is what we're currently looking at http://************/4vmg7
Or is there a better recommendation? Should I look at something thicker?
Thanks for the advice!
#9
Deric, - Just to get an understanding of your situation.......it sounds like part of the floor is raised the 1/2" by this crack along the length of the room? - Is this what has happened? Or is it a 1/2" deep crack along the floor?
If the crack is 'in' the floor, you could fill it will a good 'flooring crack filler', which is what I had to use in different areas of my floor.
Have you laid a long straight edge along the floor across the crack...to see how 'flat' or un-flat the floor is?
I havent used a SLC (self leveling compound) before, but it has been recommended often on this site to get the floor 'flat'. - That may be the way to go..
Were you considering creating a sub-floor w/plywood, laying the plywood up to the crack in the floor to get that side of the floor level with the other side of the crack/floor?
I would think that could work,...but perhaps some of the pro's here might be able to shed some more light on that scenario....
The Pergo you linked to is 8mm..which is a pretty good thickness. Mine is 8mil too - tho' thibodeaub mentions 10mil...which is obviously 2mil thicker..and presumable better. But 8mil shouldnt pose any problems. I certainly wouldnt go any thinner...
If the crack is 'in' the floor, you could fill it will a good 'flooring crack filler', which is what I had to use in different areas of my floor.
Have you laid a long straight edge along the floor across the crack...to see how 'flat' or un-flat the floor is?
I havent used a SLC (self leveling compound) before, but it has been recommended often on this site to get the floor 'flat'. - That may be the way to go..
Were you considering creating a sub-floor w/plywood, laying the plywood up to the crack in the floor to get that side of the floor level with the other side of the crack/floor?
I would think that could work,...but perhaps some of the pro's here might be able to shed some more light on that scenario....
The Pergo you linked to is 8mm..which is a pretty good thickness. Mine is 8mil too - tho' thibodeaub mentions 10mil...which is obviously 2mil thicker..and presumable better. But 8mil shouldnt pose any problems. I certainly wouldnt go any thinner...
#10
How flat is flat???
Not to belabour the point...
I have just finished removing the carpet and underpad from our living/dining rooms and den. I will be installing laminate over an existing wood sub-floor, however there are a number of 'hills and valleys' that I have to contend with. So here are my questions:
1. will the foam underlayment not compensate for the unevenness
2. will a self-leveling product work on a wood sub-floor
3. why didn't I hire someone to do this
TIA,
Len
I have just finished removing the carpet and underpad from our living/dining rooms and den. I will be installing laminate over an existing wood sub-floor, however there are a number of 'hills and valleys' that I have to contend with. So here are my questions:
1. will the foam underlayment not compensate for the unevenness
2. will a self-leveling product work on a wood sub-floor
3. why didn't I hire someone to do this
TIA,
Len