Hardwood pricing
#1
Hardwood pricing
Hi all,
I've finished some areas of my floor with hardwood tongue & groove, and I'm thinking of finishing the entire floor with it instead of putting down carpet.
The problem I have is the sheer cost of the hardwood. I have bought it Home Depot in the past for $88 for a box that covers only 20 sq ft. Is there any way I can get this stuff cheaper?
Chris
I've finished some areas of my floor with hardwood tongue & groove, and I'm thinking of finishing the entire floor with it instead of putting down carpet.
The problem I have is the sheer cost of the hardwood. I have bought it Home Depot in the past for $88 for a box that covers only 20 sq ft. Is there any way I can get this stuff cheaper?
Chris
#4
Hi again,
Well, I decided on hardwood. Found something a little different, though. Some thinner hardwood that was nearly half the price, same warranty, and good quality from what I saw.
Reducued the floor, installed it (God, that was painstaking), and am all done. Looks great, feels good, and now I move on to other projects!
Chris
Well, I decided on hardwood. Found something a little different, though. Some thinner hardwood that was nearly half the price, same warranty, and good quality from what I saw.
Reducued the floor, installed it (God, that was painstaking), and am all done. Looks great, feels good, and now I move on to other projects!
Chris
#5
What concerns me about your post, is the dates in which you posted asking for wood flooring information, and 3 days later you post saying it is installed.
What was the moisture content of the hardwood and what was the moisture content of the subfloor you installed over, along with the temperature & humidity inside the installation area???
I hope you didn't bring it right home and slap it on the subfloor that day!!!!!
You could have sent me the cash invested, instead of throwing it out of the window.
What was the moisture content of the hardwood and what was the moisture content of the subfloor you installed over, along with the temperature & humidity inside the installation area???
I hope you didn't bring it right home and slap it on the subfloor that day!!!!!
You could have sent me the cash invested, instead of throwing it out of the window.
#6
No worries, mate. The directions called for the new hardwood planking to be in the room adapting to it's new setting for 48 hours, which it did. We installed it in a few hours.
http://www.bartlett-family.net/hardwood.html has some pics. Turned out great!
Chris
http://www.bartlett-family.net/hardwood.html has some pics. Turned out great!
Chris
#7
BTW, I know it seemed fast, but that's the way I do things in life. I don't waste time thinking things over and over and over again, only to do it and think more later. I make a decision, do it, and live with it unless it's completely horrible. Anything short of that horror is a done deal.
Chris
Chris
#8
Wood floor installation
Was this solid or engineered wood product? Some of those engineered products can not be sanded and refinished.
Thanks for the photos. I especially like the last one. The job was complete and you kicked off your shoes and went to bed exhausted. I assume. The floor looks great. Wow! What an improvement!
Did you leave an expansion gap. I couldn't tell from the photos.
Thanks for the photos. I especially like the last one. The job was complete and you kicked off your shoes and went to bed exhausted. I assume. The floor looks great. Wow! What an improvement!
Did you leave an expansion gap. I couldn't tell from the photos.
#9
Originally Posted by twelvepole
Was this solid or engineered wood product? Some of those engineered products can not be sanded and refinished.
Originally Posted by twelvepole
Thanks for the photos. I especially like the last one. The job was complete and you kicked off your shoes and went to bed exhausted. I assume. The floor looks great. Wow! What an improvement!
Originally Posted by twelvepole
Did you leave an expansion gap. I couldn't tell from the photos.
Chris
#11
It is definitely hardwood. At least... It says that right on the packaging. It damn well better be hardwood.
There is little or no gap between the floor and the wall anywhere. No need, it's wall to wall, covered by the base trim where it doesn't butt right up.
Chris
There is little or no gap between the floor and the wall anywhere. No need, it's wall to wall, covered by the base trim where it doesn't butt right up.
Chris
#12
Originally Posted by twelvepole
I checked on Traffic Master. Is it wood? They say it is a laminate product.
Chris
#13
looks great, WB!! so, was it nailed down or just floated? did it have a tongue & groove click-together system?
and no underlayment or barrier of any kind was needed? just slapped it down right over that <lovely> subfloor, huh?
we laid TrafficMaster laminate in our kitchen & dining room. our boxes looked just like yours - hope yours really was hardwood!
and no underlayment or barrier of any kind was needed? just slapped it down right over that <lovely> subfloor, huh?
we laid TrafficMaster laminate in our kitchen & dining room. our boxes looked just like yours - hope yours really was hardwood!
#14
Originally Posted by Annette
looks great, WB!!
Originally Posted by Annette
o, was it nailed down or just floated? did it have a tongue & groove click-together system?
Originally Posted by Annette
and no underlayment or barrier of any kind was needed? just slapped it down right over that <lovely> subfloor, huh?
Originally Posted by Annette
we laid TrafficMaster laminate in our kitchen & dining room. our boxes looked just like yours - hope yours really was hardwood!
Chris
#15
just curious & wanting to learn
hmmmm.....i wonder why with the laminate, you have to use an underlayment, but with hardwood, you don't???
also, with a floating laminate, you must leave an expansion gap. doesn't the same go for a floating real wood floor? real wood expands & contracts, doesn't it? then again, how could you ever nail down real wood???
not doubting you, WB, or trying to stir up a hornet's nest or anything. i'm really just curious. can someone explain it to me?
also, with a floating laminate, you must leave an expansion gap. doesn't the same go for a floating real wood floor? real wood expands & contracts, doesn't it? then again, how could you ever nail down real wood???
not doubting you, WB, or trying to stir up a hornet's nest or anything. i'm really just curious. can someone explain it to me?
#16
Feel free to dounbt me, Annette. I'm a computer/web guy, not a floor guy. I am aware that wood expands and contracts, and I too find it odd that they mentioned nothing of underlayment, expansion gaps or the like in the installation instructions.
I just snapped the pieces together, laid 'em down, and took pics. That was it. Perhaps I did it "right", perhaps I did it "wrong", but it's done, looks good, and will hopefully last.
Cheers,
Chris
I just snapped the pieces together, laid 'em down, and took pics. That was it. Perhaps I did it "right", perhaps I did it "wrong", but it's done, looks good, and will hopefully last.
Cheers,
Chris
#17
Wow, well I must say this is totally new in floor covering at least in the last 8 years I have been doing it.
Hardwood does expand and contract....ALL of them. expansion is manditory, so I am suprised it was not noted.
And a pad is needed big time or yopu will have problems MAYBE with level problems. And you may have issues with squeaking as well. Think of it this way, when you rub 2 sticks together what happens? well, you won't have a fire issue, but wood to wood can create problems, so pad helps with it.
Even 3/4 solid hardwood needs a barrier between the wood and the subfloor.
I hope this is a revolutionary product though. I am interested in seeing what all the hubbub is.
Hardwood does expand and contract....ALL of them. expansion is manditory, so I am suprised it was not noted.
And a pad is needed big time or yopu will have problems MAYBE with level problems. And you may have issues with squeaking as well. Think of it this way, when you rub 2 sticks together what happens? well, you won't have a fire issue, but wood to wood can create problems, so pad helps with it.
Even 3/4 solid hardwood needs a barrier between the wood and the subfloor.
I hope this is a revolutionary product though. I am interested in seeing what all the hubbub is.
#18
There is little or no gap between the floor and the wall anywhere. No need, it's wall to wall, covered by the base trim where it doesn't butt right up.
yikes!!!
well, the good news is, with these click-together systems, when & if your floor starts to squeak & buckle because it's got no space to expand, you'll be able to easily disassemble it, lay down some underlayment, shave off 1/4" from the end planks & reassemble it! and only in a few hours!!!