Replacing skreeds (sp?)


  #1  
Old 11-16-00, 05:54 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Question

Had some sub-flooring water damage - skreeds rotted. Concrete flooring is the base. How do you replace the skreeds (the support wood for the hardwood floor)?
 
  #2  
Old 11-18-00, 06:43 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Post

Your question is not clear. Screeds are placed in concrete joints as an expandable material to fill the joint so that when concrete expands/contracts due to temperature/humidity changes there is something there. What are you trying to do with hardwood floors. Hardwood is not recommended for a below ground installation. For above ground you can use hardwood on concrete if you use proper installation methods with moisture barrier and sleepers or 3/4" plywood wood subfloor. We need more info.
patricia (www.twelvepole.com)
 
  #3  
Old 11-19-00, 01:22 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Question

Ruby:

I wish I had pictures for this one and I see one "red flag" waving right away. Has the source of the water damage been determined and fixed? How are the screeds or sleepers fastened to the concrete substrate?

I don't understand Patricia's comment, or perhaps she is referring to "screeding off an area with a levelling compound?" The terms, screeds and sleepers are referred to as the same in regards to installing over a concrete slab.
 
  #4  
Old 11-19-00, 07:26 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Post

quote:<HR>Originally posted by Elite Flooring/Ken Fisher:
Ruby:

I wish I had pictures for this one and I see one "red flag" waving right away. Has the source of the water damage been determined and fixed? How are the screeds or sleepers fastened to the concrete substrate?

I don't understand Patricia's comment, or perhaps she is referring to "screeding off an area with a levelling compound?" The terms, screeds and sleepers are referred to as the same in regards to installing over a concrete slab.
<HR>


The house is 50 some years old. The source of the water is in dispute. An engineer hired by the insureance company did some tests and said that the water is from subterranian seepage. A building inspector says that it is from a previous window sill leak that has since been repaired, but before the floor damged was discovered.
There is a layer of Tar or some sort of mastic that covers the slab as much as we can see from the area that we have pulled up the wood flooring. The wood slats that the wood flooring is mounted to are "glued" down by the tar or mastic. I tend to agree with the building inspector - only because I don't see how there can be seepage in only one area. So we have to pull up the entire floor and put down a newer moisture barrier before we relay a new floor of any kind - wood or carpet? If so, how do you remount the support slats to the sub-flooring? I appreciate your input. Thank you
 
  #5  
Old 11-19-00, 07:43 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Post

Forgive my ignorance, but the only time I have seen the word "screeds" used was when I typed reports for an engineer. The little black strips you see in concrete joints on highways are called screeds. I have always seen the word sleepers used in reference to wood floor installations on concrete. If you have a moisture problem, it could be due to a spring beneath the concrete. I had a customer who reported 4 springs seeping through the concrete in her basement floor. She wanted me to sell her a flooring product that would cure her moisture problems. I told her that we should pray for drought as no flooring manufacturer's warranty would stand up to underground springs. I agree with Ken in that the moisture problem needs to be addressed before you address the flooring issue. Sleepers are usually installed with a mastic or adhesive. Solid hardwood floors are not recommended for below ground installation because of moisture/humidity changes that result in expansion/contraction problems. Solid hardwood can be used above ground on hardwood if there are no moisture problems and you install a polyethylene moisture barrier and the sleepers. Perhaps Ken has more info he can share with us.
patricia@twelvepole.com
 
  #6  
Old 11-19-00, 07:46 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Post

Oops, wish there was a way to edit. I said hardwood could be installed above ground on hardwood. I meant it can be installed above ground on concrete. Sorry.
patricia@twelvepole.com
 
  #7  
Old 11-20-00, 07:25 AM
oleden
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Post

There is a way to edit. Click on the pencil icon just above the text of the posted message. You will be able to edit a previously posted message and a line will be added to the bottom of the post indicating the date/time the message was edited.
 
  #8  
Old 11-20-00, 01:17 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Post

Ruby:

Check out the specs for your situation at places like nofma.org, woodfloors.org, maplefloor.org. as they should set you in the right direction.
 
  #9  
Old 11-20-00, 03:06 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Post

Hi Folks,

I usually stick to the tile and marble portion of this site, but 2x4 and 1x4 "screeds" are commonplace in my area (Houston). The black material holding them to the concrete is hot mopped tar. It serves two purposes: it's the adhesive and the moisture barrier. The 2x4s are pre cut in 2 foot lengths and laid in on about 8 in. centers. Makes one great hardwood floor.

As an aside, the term "screed" is also used in the tile and marble business. A screed is something the straitedge rides against when floating a mud floor (a substrate for tile or stone). The screed can be mud or metal pipe or wood. In Australia, the "screed" is the actual mud floor itself.

As another aside, I always thought the stuff that goes between sections of concrete was called expansion joint material, or in the case of wood, partitions.

Have fun,

John
http://www.johnbridge.com
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: