Need Advice: capping laminate end against stairwell
#1
03-22-06, 01:20 PM
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Need Advice: capping laminate end against stairwell
This coming weekend, I am getting ready to lay snap-in (no glue) laminate flooring in the living/dining room over plywood sub-floor (and laminate flooring underlayment). I previously had carpeting that covered the floor and stairs.
Before I start, I would like to get an idea of how to address my problem. I am concerned about the finish look of the edge (3/4" width) of the plywood, after installing the laminate flooring, around a front door entrance stairwell with 5 stairs that go up to the living room entrance on one side and to the side above a 4' wall. Any suggestions on what I can do to cap the edge of the plywood and laminate floor to give a finished look around 2 sides of the stairwell. I was given the advice to trim the plywood just inside of the stair riser and replace the stair riser to overlap the plywood and endcap the laminate above the riser.
Some additional info:
As you stand in the stairwell, before going up the stairs, the living room plywood floor is about chest high so you can see the edge (width) of the plywood. The plywood overhangs the last stair riser and the wall to the side of the stairs. The stair well is approx 3' wide by approx 6' (including stairs). One wall has the entrace door with the stairs directly in front leading to the living room. Facing the living room, there is a full wall to the left of the stairwell and a 4' high wall to the right of the stairwell looking into the living room. Above the 4' high wall is a railing.
Before I start, I would like to get an idea of how to address my problem. I am concerned about the finish look of the edge (3/4" width) of the plywood, after installing the laminate flooring, around a front door entrance stairwell with 5 stairs that go up to the living room entrance on one side and to the side above a 4' wall. Any suggestions on what I can do to cap the edge of the plywood and laminate floor to give a finished look around 2 sides of the stairwell. I was given the advice to trim the plywood just inside of the stair riser and replace the stair riser to overlap the plywood and endcap the laminate above the riser.
Some additional info:
As you stand in the stairwell, before going up the stairs, the living room plywood floor is about chest high so you can see the edge (width) of the plywood. The plywood overhangs the last stair riser and the wall to the side of the stairs. The stair well is approx 3' wide by approx 6' (including stairs). One wall has the entrace door with the stairs directly in front leading to the living room. Facing the living room, there is a full wall to the left of the stairwell and a 4' high wall to the right of the stairwell looking into the living room. Above the 4' high wall is a railing.
#2
03-23-06, 02:28 AM
You must have a split foyer layout. The existing guardrail will need to be removed first then install a 5 1/4" wide oak landing tread nosing along the living room and mitered to run along the top riser. Underneath the nosing you normally use a cove mold to cover the unfinished edges of subfloor. You normally will have to install a taller riser too at the top step. The railing gets reinstalled on top of that landing tread.
The laminate gets run to the landing tread leaving an expansion gap that you can use a square nose end cap or sometimes a t-mold to trim out.
The landing tread is a pattern number 8090-5. Lowe's has it. Do not use the narrower 3 1/2" wide because you can't safely install a guardrail on top of that. it needs to be wider.
http://www.stairsupplies.com/index.a...ROD&ProdID=147
The laminate gets run to the landing tread leaving an expansion gap that you can use a square nose end cap or sometimes a t-mold to trim out.
The landing tread is a pattern number 8090-5. Lowe's has it. Do not use the narrower 3 1/2" wide because you can't safely install a guardrail on top of that. it needs to be wider.
http://www.stairsupplies.com/index.a...ROD&ProdID=147
#3
03-23-06, 09:28 AM
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Thanks Jerry - follow-up question
Thanks. The landing tread will work. The 3/4 plywood is not flush with the wall and extends about 1/2" beyond the wall to form a lip that is used for the carpeting to be wrapped and stapled. I assume I would need to trim the plywood "lip" so that it is flush with the drywall and landing tread so that I could cover the plywood edge with the cove molding. Assume I would do the same with the top stair so that I could install the riser flush with the floor.
Just looking to confirm.
Thanks for your help.
Just looking to confirm.
Thanks for your help.
#4
03-24-06, 02:54 AM
That's right.
You can also add a trim board after you cut back the subfloor flush to the drywall and let the landing tread overhang the trim board. It just depends on how formal you want it to look
I have used 1x material with a base cap mold underneath the trim board and where the nosing overhangs the top I use a stair cove mold 1/2" x 3/4" or plain cove which is 3/4" x 3/4".
You can also add a trim board after you cut back the subfloor flush to the drywall and let the landing tread overhang the trim board. It just depends on how formal you want it to look
I have used 1x material with a base cap mold underneath the trim board and where the nosing overhangs the top I use a stair cove mold 1/2" x 3/4" or plain cove which is 3/4" x 3/4".
