Installing Laminate Flooring on Staircase

Reply

  #1  
Old 09-21-06, 09:10 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1
Installing Laminate Flooring on Staircase

I want to remove the carpet in my staircase and replace it with laminated wood. I was told if my stair steps have and existing lip I would have to cut it out to make a 90 degree angle in order to use a nose cap. Can anyone please validate before i start the process.

Thanks
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 09-22-06, 04:56 AM
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 5,074
Correct. You can either cut off the treads overhang, or you can add to the riser, to bring it out flush with the stairs overhang.
 
  #3  
Old 09-24-06, 09:09 AM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
Exclamation

not advised. your riser is housed into the tread, by removing the nosing(overhang) you are redusing strucual strengh. the best method would be to pack the risers out to mathch the overhang, this is also not advised as there are regulations stateing that the minimum going(measurment from riser to end of tread) should be no less than 220mm
 
  #4  
Old 09-25-06, 02:52 PM
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 5,074
Originally Posted by #1chippy
not advised. your riser is housed into the tread, by removing the nosing(overhang) you are redusing strucual strengh. the best method would be to pack the risers out to mathch the overhang, this is also not advised as there are regulations stateing that the minimum going(measurment from riser to end of tread) should be no less than 220mm

Say what??? How is removing the overhang reducing strength??? It hangs out there without support. It is actually weaker design then a waterfall step design, where the riser is directly under the weight placed on the tread.

The laminate stair nose adds back to the treads dimensions.
 
  #5  
Old 09-28-06, 03:38 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
Post

Originally Posted by Carpets Done Wright
Say what??? How is removing the overhang reducing strength??? It hangs out there without support. It is actually weaker design then a waterfall step design, where the riser is directly under the weight placed on the tread.


It hangs out there??? Hmmm....
Like i said, the riser is housed into the tread at a minimum depth of 5mm, by removing the overhang you will be exposing this 5mm of riser, allowing it to sag away from the tread. The sides will be fine, as they are housed into the strings and wedged into place. Although all staircases i manufacture for use in dwellings occupied by a single household (Private) have three triangular sectioned glue blocks 75mm long, tacked and glued on the underside of the treads and risers where they meet at an internal angle, placed 150mm apart. 2 blocks for steps up to 900mm wide. 3 blocks for steps up to 990mm wide and 4 blocks for steps over 990mm wide. These would stop the riser from sagging away from the tread if the overhang was removed. Older staircases do not include such stair parts.
Just a thought, if you decide to remove overhang, presuming you have decided on a safe method to proceed, how will you make good were the tread is housed into the string? as there will be one of two results. 1,The treads project into the strings, If you cut the treads off flush with the face of the string, you will be left with end grain. bit sightly if you require a proper job. and 2,The remaining peace of tread can be removed leaving just a hole, Also sightly.

Ow and what is a "waterfall step?" say what??? I think i understand what it is you are trying to describe, never herd of it in the trade before tho???
 
  #6  
Old 10-06-06, 11:44 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1
Question Removing the nose

What is the best method and tools for removing the nosing? I have about a 2" nose of Douglass Fir on my stairs and i want to lay hardwood stair boards down.

Thanks in advance,
Karen.
 
  #7  
Old 10-08-06, 04:48 PM
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 5,074
What we have here are ruff framed 2x pine staircases, made for carpet to have a bullnose, in the framing stage of construction Only real old homes have mortised treads into the stringers, and I wouldn't be putting any laminate over those, when sand & finish is pretty close in the expense.
 
  #8  
Old 11-11-14, 01:47 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5
Why do you need to make it flush? Why not put the laminate to the edge of the tread, and use hardwood stop on the face of the existing tread to cover the front edge of the laminate?
 
  #9  
Old 11-11-14, 04:47 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,968
It's an 8 year old thread, so many involved may have solved their problem or gone inactive.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
'