Can we seal/poly brand new engineered floor

Want to diy install engineered floor, glue down direct to concrete slab. About 400 sqft. Have pets/children. Want to seal up all the micro/macro grooves so when there is a spill or pet accident, nothing will get down between the boards. Can we apply a coat(s) of a protectant/sealant type right after installed? Was even looking at some type of product used in bars for their counters/floors to apply to our new floor. Would we have to treat it just like refinishing an existing floor by sanding? Only other choice is have a pro get unfinished red oak, sand,stain,apply 3 coats poly for 8.25sqft. With all the web choices avail,can't decide on wood types but pro price seems high for just regular red oak. Hubby says I'm making this project too complicated!

 

If worried about spills, go with a plastic laminate product that has a plastic substrate or vinyl planks. Engineered wood has a veneer layer of 'real' wood over layers of lesser quality wood or other material. Applying additional finish over a prefinished wood product would void warranty. Any movement in the planks due to expansion or contraction would break the bond of sealant in gaps. Solid hardwood flooring can not be installed below grade on concrete in basements due to moisture issues.

 

I'm not a floor expert but I'd think that occasional waxing would seal any minor gaps between pieces. Check with the manufacture to see which wax would be suitable.

BTW welcome to the forums

 

Polyurethane finish should never be waxed or oiled or cleaned with products containing wax or oil. Wax and oil will contaminate floor finish and cause adhesion problems when it comes time to refinish.

 

Shouldn't be a problem with laminated flooring as most can't be refinished due to the thin layer of wood veener.

 

We have a concrete slab, so the engineered is what we and the pro would install via glue down for our climate (okla). Not going in a basement. It's for our hallways,entry and livingroom. If the pro will install engineered and he's getting his supply unfinished and he is putting on his 3 coats of poly, then I did not understand why we could not do the same (we'd be buying ours as a finished engineered 3"width). Wouldn't the pros' way also cause the boards to expand/contract? Why would we have a problem with doing extra top coats on our "store bought/install ready" engineered? I don't understand why they would crack the sealant. Just on our method? Would there be a type of additonal glue-adhesive we could bead onto each board edge as we install it into place? Warranty isn't an issue, we'll be in our house a long time, and figure after a few years the wood will be pro buffed and recoated then so wouldn't that be a warranty no-no? It's like we're doing the 2yr step right after install...
And choosing a plastic laminate with a plastic subtrate wouldn't work well either then because if the liquid got in the cracks the floor board is ruined in that scenario too. I'd never get to the urine to treat it.
We have two yorkies and they piddle on the floor on occasion if not carefully watched. They are stubborn to train, and the male marks when he's aggitated. Steamcleaning the carpets controls the smell, but the light cream carpet is needing to be replaced, and I wanted to go with the engineered wood. I may end up dragging my husband into a carpet store!

 

Your spending money on the finish that is applied from the manufacturer, which is what is warrantied in the wood warranty. It is a much better finish then anything you can apply with aftermarket finishes. White wood and its swell and shrink properties, will fracture along the edges of the boards, after seasonal movement. So what your trying to accomplish won't last long.

 

Vinyl flooring would provide a seamless surface that would be impervious to pet urine and moisture. Ceramic tile, if grout is sealed, is another option for pet proof flooring. Acid staining of concrete floors has recently become popular and is also an option.