Laminate to ceramic tile transition

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Old 10-29-06, 10:14 AM
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Laminate to ceramic tile transition

I'm installing a new laminate floor over a plywood subfloor. I will also be installing some ceramic tiles in front of heart and a couple of patio doors. The ceramic tile will be appox. 3/4" thick with the cement board and thinset. The laminate is approx. 3/8" thick. What is a good way to transition from the laminate to the ceramic flooring while allowing for the expansion gap? Is it proper to just leave a gap between the edge of the laminate and the tiles?

Thanks.
 
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Old 10-31-06, 10:57 PM
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i think you can have a try the floor accessary , it is used to deal with this kinds question.
jenson
 

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Old 11-01-06, 06:58 AM
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With the Laminate, there are accessories available to match your flooring.

End caps & "T" moldings are the required accessories, depending on the tile height.
 
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Old 11-01-06, 09:15 AM
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I have an idea, but you'll have to judge for yourself whether it will work for you.

The recommended way to floor up to a brick fireplace hearth is to cut out the bottom of the bricks and slide the boards under the bricks, leaving the required expansion gap underneath the bricks.

Why not do yours similarly? You could lay your tile with about 1 inch extending past the cement board, then later slide the laminate under there. Would look neat, and you can hide the expansion gap underneath. I'd make sure though that the gap between the bottom of the tile and the laminate is really thin, like 1/64 of an inch.
 
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Old 11-06-06, 04:14 AM
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I am choosing the commercial way. Screw the channel down between the laminate and tile and then snap the rubber strip of your color choice into the channel, covering the expansion joint. Looks and wears great. I choose a brown matching the flooring. I felt the laminate transition pieces looked cheap. Just make sure to cut the rubber a little long and compress it in the channel to allow for any future shrinkage.
 
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Old 11-10-06, 05:22 PM
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I've used the rubber transition trick before and it works well and doesn't leave much of a rise to step over. I've also used the vinyl to laminate transition to transition to tile. The rubber works best when the two surfaces are close to the same height, but I've found the other works best when there's a significant height difference. To use the transition, use it as if the laminate were the vinyl and the tile were the laminate. You'll need to put a spacer under the track that the transition snaps into in order to bring it up or the leg of the transition won't reach. As to which to use, you'll have to be the judge of that, they both work. No transition, however, is not a good idea. If it were a hearth or brick wall or something like that, sliding the laminate under is actually the best and cleanest looking way. But, if it's tile you're walking on, the tile has to hang too far over the edge of the concrete board, the laminate is a floating floor and flexes, and the tile would be susceptible to breaking off at the edge when stepped on.
 
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Old 11-17-06, 12:13 PM
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Smokey49,

Haven't been on this forum for a few days. Thanks for the reply. This rubber transition molding/strip sounds interesting. Where would I find it? Lowes, Home Depot, etc.? What would one call it when asking about it at a store? Most of the moldings I've found that are made specifically for laminate transitioning are the 4-in-1 kits. This would be quite espensive and would have a lot of joints since they are fairly short. I need approx. 30 to 40 feet of whatever I use.
 

Last edited by DIYaddict; 11-17-06 at 12:29 PM. Reason: Removed unnecessary quote
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Old 11-17-06, 05:57 PM
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Hi mswoodr,

I get it locally at American Olean / Carpet Products. You will have to go to a flooring specialty/wholesaler store or tile store. Just ask to see their selection of aluminum floor transition strips and the choices of rubber/vinyl "T" inserts. My next project I am going to try the plastic channel (for bending purposes, although the aluminum bends quit easy) and snapping the rubber/vinyl cap into that.
 
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Old 11-20-06, 10:37 AM
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The rubber snap in transitions I customarily use are made by Johnsonite and you can find their website and look at all the colors and styles available. The aluminum track works well and can be used for non straight edges, but the plastic is easier for radiused edges. (I've been out of town)
 
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