Different Color Floors in Adjacent Rooms


Old 03-13-07, 08:37 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Different Color Floors in Adjacent Rooms

I'd appreciate some feedback on the following issue. My wife and I are having renovations done to our kitchen, and we are going to replace the linoleum tile in with hardwood flooring. The living room is adjacent to the kitchen, and it already has a wood floor with a dark cherry stain. The rooms are separated by a saddle.

What are you thoughts on having the flooring in the kitchen be different than the flooring in the living room, either subtly or dramatically? I think this could be very effective, and would also have the added benefit of not having to go to the trouble and expense of scraping and re-staining the living room so it matches the new kitchen floor. My wife thinks we need to have the rooms share one homogenous wood surface and that we should also remove the saddle.

What do folks here think? Can the two rooms have different treatments or do they need to be uniform? If you think the adjacent wood floors can be different colors and/or have different plank widths, can you point me to any photos on the Web that show this to great effect? Or am I definitely wrong and the floor has got to be the same.

Thanks for any and all feedback.
Sponsored Links
Old 03-14-07, 12:18 AM
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: West of the Atlantic
Posts: 133
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I guess it depends on your tastes. Obviously you and your wife have different tastes. I don't think a contrast in flooring would look bad. In fact I agree that it can look very good if done right, especially if wall colors change from room to room.

My kitchen transitions right into my family room. The kitchen is slate tile and the family room is mahogany wood floor. Even thougth the colors are different they are complimenting colors. I know you asked about wood against wood, my floors just show that a big contrast, like in differing materials and colors can work well together. At least they do in my opinion.

This is my transition, copy and paste into a browser.
Old 03-15-07, 10:51 AM
Annette's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Midwest
Posts: 4,158
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
i vote all the same continuous wood, or something completely different in the kitchen, like tile.
Old 03-15-07, 11:21 AM
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 37
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I am about to do the same thing in my kitchen. I have 2-1/4" oak floors throughout my house stained in a sand color. Currently my kitchen has a lighter shade of linoleum. I like the color of the linoleum, but not the material. So I am leaning towards 5" wide maple boards as they are a similar shade. I also prefer wood over tile. I plan to run them perpendicular to the existing wood floors. My strategy is to give the kitchen its own unique look. In fact, I would recommend choosing a complimentary wood rather than trying to match your existing floor. It will be next to impossible. Even if you refinish the whole surface the old floor will look different than the new one. The worst thing you could do is to try to get something that 'almost' matches.

Get some scrap pieces of flooring (as big as possible) that you plan to lay down and place them on the floor. See how it looks. If you like it, go for it. If not, rethink your approach. Don't rely on brochures or pictures as the colors are often quite different in person.
Old 03-15-07, 02:34 PM
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: USA
Posts: 15,834
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Perhaps a compromise would be to install a border with the dark cherry stain and still use the maple. You will still need to use the transition piece between the two floors. Hardwood flooring should be installed perpendicular to the floor joists, as joists support the weight of the flooring.
Old 03-16-07, 09:12 AM
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 37
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Can you explain that? Does the subfloor bow under the weight of the wood flooring you lay down? I guess that is the risk. Obviously my linoleum doesn't weigh much right now. I am thinking of a 3/8" engineered product, which would weigh about half as much as a 3/4" solid. Also, it probably depends on the thickness of my subfloor and the spacing of the floor joists. Until I rip up the floor, I have no idea.

I have seen a lighter shade of maple in a kitchen before and I thought it looked really nice.
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Your question will be posted in: