New DIY'er getting frustrated with laminant. A few questions
#1
03-25-07, 09:01 PM
New DIY'er getting frustrated with laminant. A few questions
So I have recently undertaken replacing the flooring in about 900 sq feet of my new house. I have decided to use the lock n'seal Sam's brand laminant flooring. Its a floating floor that has padding pre-attached and floats over the plywood base.
Anyway, so I let the floor acclimate for a few days and then started the installation process. We couldn't afford quarter round in the whole area, so we decided to remove the baseboards and install under those. The first problem persented itself:
1. Under the baseboards, the drywall doesnt meet the floor directly. There is a gap under the wall hidden by the baseboard. As a result, we couldn't use our spacers. We've been nailing the spacers to the wall over the gap, but they aren't working great. Any suggestions here?
2. The next issue we have is with installation. Getting the first row in was easy enough, but the next row presented some problems. The first board of the 2nd row goes in, and then we start by lining up the short end of the next board with the short end of the 1st board, and then clicking into place with the previous row. Unfortunately, however, in order to get the 3rd and 4th board in the row in, we have to lift the ENTIRE row at a 45% angle to click it in. This gets very difficult as the rows get longer. Is there an easier way? We can't get the short ends to slide at all!
3. Finally, we are having some serious problems with door jambs! I cut away the base of the door moulding and was able to fit the board under just fine. However, the floor needs to go in at a 45 degree angle, and I have no idea how this is can work! How do you get the boards to connect if there is a door jamb there? Do I have to take all the door moldings off?
Thanks for all your help!
2.
Anyway, so I let the floor acclimate for a few days and then started the installation process. We couldn't afford quarter round in the whole area, so we decided to remove the baseboards and install under those. The first problem persented itself:
1. Under the baseboards, the drywall doesnt meet the floor directly. There is a gap under the wall hidden by the baseboard. As a result, we couldn't use our spacers. We've been nailing the spacers to the wall over the gap, but they aren't working great. Any suggestions here?
2. The next issue we have is with installation. Getting the first row in was easy enough, but the next row presented some problems. The first board of the 2nd row goes in, and then we start by lining up the short end of the next board with the short end of the 1st board, and then clicking into place with the previous row. Unfortunately, however, in order to get the 3rd and 4th board in the row in, we have to lift the ENTIRE row at a 45% angle to click it in. This gets very difficult as the rows get longer. Is there an easier way? We can't get the short ends to slide at all!
3. Finally, we are having some serious problems with door jambs! I cut away the base of the door moulding and was able to fit the board under just fine. However, the floor needs to go in at a 45 degree angle, and I have no idea how this is can work! How do you get the boards to connect if there is a door jamb there? Do I have to take all the door moldings off?
Thanks for all your help!
2.
#2
03-26-07, 05:07 AM
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It comes with experience!!!
Use a wedge to hold the previously installed board up at that perfect angle. Too much and it comes apart, and not enough and the length won't go it.
Use a wedge, Then insert the end, with the plank down as close as you can to the long joint. Take a 2x4 about a foot long and tap the long side down(Just use the block, NO hammer) and in going up and down the plank, as it starts to engage, start to pull the wedge out, and continue tapping the length with the 2x4. The transfer your wedge to the end of the plank you just installed and carry on.
Now to the doorjambs...
Cut the locking lip off, and use a PVA glue, like TiteBond II, Elmers wood glue for dark woods works, too.
This way you come in flat, and don't need to rotate it into the lock. Use blue painters tape to hold the joint together while the glue sets up.
Just a little glue, goes a long way. Clean any glue ooze up immediately with a damp rag.
Use a wedge to hold the previously installed board up at that perfect angle. Too much and it comes apart, and not enough and the length won't go it.
Use a wedge, Then insert the end, with the plank down as close as you can to the long joint. Take a 2x4 about a foot long and tap the long side down(Just use the block, NO hammer) and in going up and down the plank, as it starts to engage, start to pull the wedge out, and continue tapping the length with the 2x4. The transfer your wedge to the end of the plank you just installed and carry on.
Now to the doorjambs...
Cut the locking lip off, and use a PVA glue, like TiteBond II, Elmers wood glue for dark woods works, too.
This way you come in flat, and don't need to rotate it into the lock. Use blue painters tape to hold the joint together while the glue sets up.
Just a little glue, goes a long way. Clean any glue ooze up immediately with a damp rag.
#3
03-26-07, 09:30 AM
Originally Posted by Carpets Done Wright
Now to the doorjambs...
Cut the locking lip off, and use a PVA glue, like TiteBond II, Elmers wood glue for dark woods works, too.
This way you come in flat, and don't need to rotate it into the lock. Use blue painters tape to hold the joint together while the glue sets up.
Just a little glue, goes a long way. Clean any glue ooze up immediately with a damp rag.
Cut the locking lip off, and use a PVA glue, like TiteBond II, Elmers wood glue for dark woods works, too.
This way you come in flat, and don't need to rotate it into the lock. Use blue painters tape to hold the joint together while the glue sets up.
Just a little glue, goes a long way. Clean any glue ooze up immediately with a damp rag.
Is this something thats typically done, or do most people just remove the door jamb?
#4
03-26-07, 09:52 AM
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he's only telling you to glue one board. you won't have any problems with expansion. that's how he does it & he's a pro.
as far as your first question goes, about the gap at the bottom of your sheetrock - we had that, too. just do whatever you can to keep the planks from scooting completely under the sheetrock & hitting any framing under there. i think we used a scrap of the planks & set it vertically up against the wall to keep a space. whatever works! just be sure to keep 1/4" expansion gap (even if that gap is sort of "under" the drywall). also be sure that your baseboard will cover the gap.
as far as your first question goes, about the gap at the bottom of your sheetrock - we had that, too. just do whatever you can to keep the planks from scooting completely under the sheetrock & hitting any framing under there. i think we used a scrap of the planks & set it vertically up against the wall to keep a space. whatever works! just be sure to keep 1/4" expansion gap (even if that gap is sort of "under" the drywall). also be sure that your baseboard will cover the gap.
#5
03-27-07, 12:34 AM
We also used Lock N' Seal from Sams. We also had a lot of trouble with it in the beginning until we "played" with it a bit. Instead of putting one piece in at a time, we put together an entire row and then we clicked that row onto the previous row. It goes very fast that way.
Like you, we also have the wall boards that don't go down to the floor. We returned our spacers to the store and just measured the boards to go a little bit away from the wall and since there is plenty of room under the wall board there is a lot of room for expension. Just make sure the floor boards don't go under the wall boards.
Joanie
Like you, we also have the wall boards that don't go down to the floor. We returned our spacers to the store and just measured the boards to go a little bit away from the wall and since there is plenty of room under the wall board there is a lot of room for expension. Just make sure the floor boards don't go under the wall boards.
Joanie
#6
03-27-07, 08:51 AM
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Don't glue the plank to the floor!!! Glue the T&G together. It is not going to compromise anything. Call the tech line to the manufacturer, and have them explain it to you. I bet money they tell you exactly as I explained.
