Laminate edge at existing carpet


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Old 07-05-07, 12:03 AM
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Question Laminate edge at existing carpet

I had so much fun installing the laminate floor in my loft that I decided to do the small hallway on the 2nd level of my house. Currently there is plush carpeting there, which flows into the 2 bedrooms on either side, and then the bathroom in the middle (which has ceramic tile). I have decided to keep the ugly rug in the bedrooms. I will cut the carpet at the doorways, and now I have some questions about the transitions.

It is possible that these topics were covered in an older post but I wasn't able to find one exactly like my dilemma.

1. The ceramic tile is higher than the laminate floor. Should I use a laminate end moulding that butts up against the edge of the tile? Or is there something better to use? If I have to use the end moulding I will definitely need to clean up the grout/mortar on that edge from when I did the ceramic tile a few years ago - if it will be showing.

2. Where the laminate will transition to carpet, where is the "proper" place to cut the existing carpet? Is it supposed to be in the center of the door frame or more on one side or the other? Meaning, should it be cut on the outside of the door frame (more in the hall) or inside (more in the bedroom)?

3. Am I going to need one of those shiny (usually gold) metal strips to attach the rough edge of the rug to? What are my other options? I hate the look of those metal strips but I understand that carpeting usually stays in place best with the little teeth to hold onto it from underneath.

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!! Hoping someone will have some good advice for me!
 
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Old 07-05-07, 02:44 AM
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1) There are transition pieces available with most brands of laminate that correspond. Use the transition piece designed to terminate laminate to vinyl, but turn it around. The edge designed to lip over vinyl will actually be over the laminate and the edge designed to lip over the laminate will actually be over the tile. You'll need to shim the track so it's up as high as the laminate, but this works well. The edge of the tile will be covered so you should be able to hide it to some extent.

2) The proper place to terminate the carpet to laminate is directly under the door. When the door is closed, you don't want laminate bleeding over into the carpet area or carpet into the laminate area. But, the proper place to cut the carpet is the opposite side of the frame. You'll want enough carpet material available to work with when it's time to do the termination. Most of the carpet to laminate terminations have one side that lips over the laminate and one side that is a blunt, flat face the carpet is stuffed to, same as a wall. You'll want the edge of the transition piece in the proper location so you'll need to set it in place at the outset, draw a line on the floor where it terminates on the carpet side, and then, by measuring from the edge of the nose to the center of the leg that snaps into the track, determine where the track needs to be in order to end up with the termination point directly in the center of the door. When the laminate is finished and the transition piece is in place, a piece of Z bar in conjunction with tack strip will help keep the carpet in place over time. The nose of the transition piece is blunt and slick so the carpet will tend to come unstuffed at this point. Z bar will keep the edge looking tidy.

3) Answer two should eliminate the need to address question three.
 
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Old 07-08-07, 05:04 PM
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Thanks to Smokey for the suggestions :)

Just wanted to update that the hall is done. I did use the "reducer strip" in reverse for the tile to laminate transition, and it worked great. Except I couldn't use the metal track because of the height issue, so instead I drilled 3 pilot holes in the reducer strip and then nailed it into place and filled the holes with wood putty to match. Looks super. I never would have thought to turn the reducer around, so thanks for that suggestion.

As far as the rug edge, I actually cut a really nice straight edge on the carpet in the doorway and then went underneath and trimmed back the carpet pad about 2 inches. I stapled the edge of the rug to the subfloor to secure it and then bought an oak threshold @ Lowes and stained it to match the laminate floor, and then overlapped both the edge of the laminate and the edge of the carpet. The predrilled holes in the threshold allowed for the expansion gap even after the screws were into the subfloor. It looks awesome.
 
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Old 07-08-07, 09:00 PM
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The height issue for the track was why I mentioned a shim under it to bring it up. My concern with the method you used is the void now under it. Not saying that it absolutely will, but it may begin to break over time. Easy fix if it does though. The carpet termination isn't what I would have done, but sounds like it should work fine and was probably less expensive. They're quite proud of those transition pieces. Thanks for the update and I'm glad it worked out for you.
 
 

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