Truly floating floor

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  #1  
Old 01-24-08, 05:29 PM
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Truly floating floor

I have a concrete slab and I am installing a Pergo engineered hardwood floor. I finished my dining room and there are areas where the floor does not lay flat and when you walk on it, it rises up and down. Other areas feels solid when I walk on it. The slab is not perfectly level but you could not tell by looking at the slab that it is uneven.

Why could this be happening? Could it be a result of the section not being press tightly together? After time will it end up laying flat? Any ideas? Thanks
 
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Old 01-24-08, 06:11 PM
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You can not really determine if your slab is flat by just looking at it. You have to get a long straight edge and run it across the floor. You should not see any light under it, if you do, your floor is not flat.

Did you allow your floor to acclimate to this room at least 48 hrs before installing?

The panels will not fix themselves, and if you do not fix this issue, the planks will just come apart and the locking grooves will get damaged.
 
  #3  
Old 01-25-08, 11:07 AM
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A couple ideas.

I agree with the other forum member who suggested that you determine if the floor is flat. If it isn't, I would suggest one of two preparations depending on how "unflat" it is. If it is minor, + - 1/16" you could probably get away with gluing the floor rather than just floating it. The glue will fill in the low spots enough to prevent that flexing when you walk on it. You can also glue down a cork underlayment that will be even better and then glue the floor to the cork. If the uneveness is greater than 1/16", i suggest you use a floor leveler first. the best know product is Ardex but there are other brands as well. It is apourable cement that is self leveling. Regardless of which way you go, you have to accommodate that unevenness somehow for the job to be successful. Good luck.
 
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Old 01-25-08, 12:11 PM
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PITTPRINTER and HOTINOKC,

Thanks for the responses. Since the grooves are glued together. I am guessing that what is been layed down is not salvageable. I'll have to go back and most likely rip it up. I think waht happened is I let the flooring set in the room for a week but I had open the the boxes. Some of the flooring in the top boxes must of been warped.

How hard is the Ardex to mix and use? Thanks again
 
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Old 01-25-08, 02:51 PM
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A few questions:

Did you leave the required expansion gap along the entire outside perimeter of the floor?

Where is this floating floor being installed? Bathroom? Kitchen?

Have you installed the vapor barrier?
 
  #6  
Old 01-25-08, 08:19 PM
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Yes I have the required gaps around the perimeter. The flooring in question is in the dining room. I am planning on putting the flooring down in the living and family rooms also. The dining room table and chairs will cover most of the area. I also installed the vapor barrier called 3 in 1.
 
  #7  
Old 02-01-08, 02:22 PM
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We have the same problem and it is a click and lock product. I thought it might be because the underlayment still had some memory and wanted to roll up while we were working. It is down flat but I now wonder if it ever will lay flat. Our slab is flat and the required expansion space is there.
we have all but decided to use cork for our underlayment in the next room. what is the 'inches' thickness of 6mil?
 
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Old 02-01-08, 03:11 PM
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Sounds like your subfloor is not flat. Wood/laminate floors need a very flat subfloor. An uneven subfloor creates voids under your planks along the board seams to move.
 
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Old 02-02-08, 01:07 PM
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yeah, it seems so. We checked another area and there are some very slight dips. smooth does not mean flat everyone! We will be using a self leveler to fix this but can that just be applied right over a stained concrete floor, or will the stained area need to be stripped? That is stain ,as in purposfully applied, not opps I dropped my spaghetti.
 
  #10  
Old 02-03-08, 08:22 AM
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You can use the SLC over a etched/stained concrete surface, BUT, it sounds like the concrete is sealed.

Most sealers have a way of removing them, so you maybe able to purchase a stripper for it.

I doubt SLC will adhere well to a sealed surface, and probably isn't recommended.



P.S.

I deleted your newer thread regarding this question for you. Keep all your questions in this thread.



GO PATRIOTS!
 
  #11  
Old 02-04-08, 07:24 PM
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Thanks for keeping it all together. I will of course read the directions of whatever SLC we use but is there a minimum depth? I really dont want to alter the height of the overall floor because of transitioning into the other areas (tile) so could, if mapped out well, we just apply to the low spots? Also we are thinking of using 1/8th inch cork for underlayment (over vapor/moisture barrier). I know that would negate any warranty The underlayment the home improvement store sold us was really awful, and we found out later was not the same brand the flooring recommened (Armstrong Bruce lock and fold) so we lost that warranty too I guess. It was a 3in 1 and had a wicked coil and reverse coil a few feet from the end that really made it difficult to work with and wasted about 10% if you eliminated the reverse coil. thank you so much for your help. Some people get pleasure from buying pretty things, we get it from building pretty things.
 
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