Home Legend hand scraped oak flooring

Reply

  #1  
Old 02-04-08, 03:31 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1
Home Legend hand scraped oak flooring

Hi,
I went into Home Depot today, and the salesman tried to sell me the Home Legend hand scraped oak floating wood flooring. It really looks good, better than Bruce's click & lock. Does anyone have any experience with this.

I am wanting to install wood flooring in my living room & hallway about 650 sq. ft. worth. I can either float it or glue it down (we have concrete) What's the best way to go? Anyone have any great ideas on good products they have used? I need to sell this house in 5 years and want something that will still look good then. I like the look of the wider planks with the hand scraped look.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 02-15-08, 10:17 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1
Sorry, I don't have any experience with this. I did catch glimpse of the flooring and I agree with your assessment of how nice it looks. I am contemplating putting it over concrete, as well. Though, I did not think that floating this floor was an option. It was my understanding that it MUST be glued down. Let me know if otherwise, as a floating floor is much more appealing to me for ease of installation if nothing else.
 
  #3  
Old 02-15-08, 02:13 PM
HotxxxxxxxOKC's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 8,044
It's a engineered wood and needs to be glued down, no floating.
 
  #4  
Old 04-16-08, 11:23 AM
Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1
I just called HD in FL and specifically asked about being able to float this floor.....since I have already ordered it and intended to float it NOTglue it. Floor rep says yes can be floated or glued because it is "click" together style.
 
  #5  
Old 04-16-08, 12:00 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where the cows roam, CA
Posts: 2,204
Welcome to the DoItYourself.com forums floatfloor

Good thing you called. It's always nice to call and ask. However, I would love to see everything in writing, directly from the manufacturer.

In reference to this particular floor type (Home Legend Hand Scraped Oak -Engineered) I don't see where it is written that you can float it.

I would do nothing other than what the manufacturer states. People can tell you all kinds of things but people make mistakes too. Go back and see what it says specifically for installation. Doing other than what the manufacturer states will void your warranty regardless of what anyone tells you.
 
  #6  
Old 05-27-08, 12:54 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 2
Home Legend-qaulity questions

Does anyone have any experience with the quality of this particular manufacturer(Home Legends)? The price is great, but don't want problems later on that will outweigh the original cost savings. Tks.
 
  #7  
Old 05-27-08, 04:58 PM
HotxxxxxxxOKC's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 8,044
I've sold 10's of thousands of square feet of this stuff without many complaints. People will complain about anything, no matter how good it is.

Like any wood floor, it WILL get knicked, scratch, etc, but most have some sort of repair putty you can get that matches the floor.

Proper maintenance is key, along with floor preperation and installation.
 
  #8  
Old 05-27-08, 06:08 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 2
glue vs float

Mark:
If it is truely click any preference on glue down vs. float? Tks. Paul
 
  #9  
Old 08-13-08, 07:55 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1
Home Legends hand scraped engineered oak flooring

I have 29 boxes sitting in my living room waiting to be installed tomorrow. It's beautiful. It says right on the box, "fast and easy glueless installation. No gluing or stapling required". I'll post a review after it's installed.
 
  #10  
Old 08-16-08, 07:41 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 35
Originally Posted by squeezelouise View Post
I have 29 boxes sitting in my living room waiting to be installed tomorrow. It's beautiful. It says right on the box, "fast and easy glueless installation. No gluing or stapling required". I'll post a review after it's installed.
Did you install it? What are your thoughts?

I really like the look, but do not know anything about the company or quaility. The manufacturer's instructions say you can even install it over an existing wood or tile floor. Anyone tried this?
 
  #11  
Old 08-17-08, 07:08 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1
I am also intersted to know how the install went. I am looking to begin putting down 22 boxes myself the next few days. It is going down directly on the concrete slab, but I'm still a little nervous about doing myself.

If someone has some experience or tips when it comes to installing these floors, please let me know. Any and all information would be helpful. Thanks
 
  #12  
Old 08-30-08, 05:38 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 2
one room down--one + hallway to go!

OK, I have just completed our living room installation. The floor looks great, and it wasn't that hard to put down. I am floating it--not gluing it. I used 6 mil poly vapor barrier plus a sound deadening foam underlayment product called QuickStep. It looks great, but I've hit a snag. the T-moldings that I bought aren't working. I really need reducer, but the reducer that I got from HD doesn't have a T to snap into the track. And the track isn't high enough to engage the T strip, so it looks like I'm going to have to put a 1/4" filler strip underneath the track so that it will catch the T-strip. Still not sure what to do about the places where I meet tile flooring--gotta have reducer there. Any suggestions?
 
  #13  
Old 09-07-08, 01:34 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 2
I am currently putting down 820 sq. ft. of this everywhere on our second level. I anticipate having one place where neither the T-molding or reducer will work as-is, and that's at the threshold of our upstairs bathroom/tile.

It sounds like you have a solution already - just apply a filler strip to one side of the T-molding to compensate for the lower tile level.

I did this to our downstairs floor that I installed in July, where three thresholds were to tile that was 1/4 in. lower than the flooring. I simply ripped a 1/4 in. strip from strap flooring, glued this to one side of the T-molding, finished side facing out, then glued this to the tile to complete the install.

Pretty simple. Slightly more complicated, but still simple, was one threshold to 6x6 in. tile, where two of the 4 tiles at the threshold were about 1/8 in. lower than the other two. Here I ripped a 1/4 in. strip the full threshold length, glued it on the T-molding, then simply ripped two 6 in. strips, 1/8 in. thick, and glues these to the strip already attached to the T-molding , such that they aligned with the two lower tiles.

For any look other than close inspection, it looks like a single piece matching the floor.

Good luck!
 
  #14  
Old 09-07-08, 02:04 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 2
DIY Flooring from HD--Emphasis on "Y"

Thanks for your reply, cwalexan. I have done the exact same thing--almost. Instead of gluing the makeshift reducer to the tile floor, I wanted it to allow the floating floor to, well, float. That was the vexxing thing the HD folks kept saying to me: "can't you just glue it down?". Aaahhhrrrg! First of all, I would know what kind of glue to use to adhere to tile--I inherently distrust glue. And glue can be messy. Secondly, my free end of the floating floor is "puckered up" just a bit. Apparently, the free end on the last course of planks tends to lock in with a bit of residual up-warping. This was true all the way across the floor, but the next course of planks always made the previous course lay down nicely. The last course has no "next course" (of course ;-) to make it lay flat. So I needed my "T" molding to pull the last course of planks flat. That might be possible with glue--I suppose I could have placed some heavy objects on it while the glue dried, but then I might not have been able to do a good job of cleaning up residual glue. And my floor would be unable to expand and contract with the relative humidity. So I found some T-molding track that HD sold (note: one HD had it, but it was marked for clearance, so apparently they won't have it for long??). The T-molding track was too short for the roughly 1/2" thick flooring, so I had to rip spacers for underneath the track, too. To my great relief, it all came together, in the end, and it looks nice. My wife complained about the 1/4-3/8" ledge on the tile side of the reducer, but they don't call it a reducer for nothing. And since HD doesn't sell a reducer with this product, it is the best option I could think of.
 
  #15  
Old 09-08-08, 02:57 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 2
Glad to hear you worked it out. Just to follow-up, I like the idea of your completely-glueless solution. For my install, I found plenty of references indicating that glue was the way to go for these, with the caveat/important point that the glue only goes to one side of the reducer/molding. For tile, I glued down to the tile, so the floor floats under the threshold on the other side.

I did have two doors where I did not install the floor to flow through the doorway (and if I had it to do over again, I'd have flowed through the doorways). In these instances (and I'll have four of these to do upstairs), I did glue to the floor, but again only on one side of the threshold molding, so both floor areas still float independently.

There were plenty of construction-grade glues to choose from. I picked up one of Loctite's flavors, in a caulking tube. Honestly, it was a lot easier to use than I thought it would be, and it's so thick so as to really not be messy at all. Definitely weighted the pieces down overnight.

I had one threshold similar to what you mentioned, where there was a bit of warping. Actually, it was the T-molding piece itself that pulled slightly up on one end. Still glued down, though. Of course, this was downstairs, with a different flavor of flooring - 86"x7" planks - compared to the hand-scraped oak that you used and that I'm putting down upstairs, and these longer, heavier planks layed down flat on the edges. I do see that I'll have the same issue you described with the oak, and it not laying flat at the edges. More warping, too, but it seems to be going together just fine all the same.

Thanks for the insights.
 
  #16  
Old 09-17-08, 11:24 AM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 2
HomeLegend Click Lock Flooring in Kitchen Area

Preparing to lay 1200 sq. feet of HomeLegend HDF Engineered Wood Flooring, glueless installation this weekend.

Style, 5/8" Oak Gun Stock Hand Scrapped, 3 1/2 inch width.

Is there any special joint preparation needed for the kitchen area? Do I need to seal the joints in the kitchen area with caulking?
 
  #17  
Old 09-17-08, 03:56 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1
Installed 720sq ft of Hand Scraped Elm from Home Legends

I installed quite a bit of the Hand Scraped Elm. Installation is a breeze compared to some other products. The Elm instructions also said that there was no need to glue. I put down 6mil polyethylene over concrete slab and then the wood on top. An earlier post mentioned the last couple of boards floating up about 1/2in or so from the floor. I have carpet that transitions without a reducer straight into the wood. I got fed up with trying a number of things and was not about to go purchase the glue used for a complete job. I purchased a couple of tube of Liquid Nails for wood and went to work. I had to set something hefty to hold the edge of the wood down overnight. Came back the next day and it was solid. That was about a week or two ago. Still holding with no issues.

I too, am a little upset with the T molding and the carpet reducer that Home Legend offers with the flooring. The T portion is not tall enough for the wood or the tile. I called the support line, the product is great but support is horrible. I was told that they are to be glued down and then they hung up on me. Mine did not even come with a track to mount the T molding into.

The transition pieces are the biggest headache... you have to be creative to make them work. The wood is great for the price. The only issue that I have now is that with all of the work in the house, there is a lot of dust and the floors keep a haze on them even after being wiped down.
 
  #18  
Old 09-28-08, 06:21 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3
Stair Caps?

Are there stair caps for the Home Legends flooring? I have stairs that go down from the rooms I want to put flooring down on, and need to be able to have a stair cap. I actually would like to install hard wood stairs too. I did see some finished hardwoord stairs that would match pretty good, but of course not perfect. And it was different brand, so for the very top where the floor itself comes to teh stair cap, I'd probably need one made by that brand.
 
  #19  
Old 09-28-08, 06:39 PM
HotxxxxxxxOKC's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 8,044
They should have all matching mouldings, but it will be special order.
 
  #20  
Old 10-02-08, 06:07 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1
the installation work is much more important. handscraped would be a practical choice. and think over on the style and color.
 

Last edited by szliangbo; 10-02-08 at 06:37 AM.
  #21  
Old 12-18-08, 05:42 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 2
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by jblackman View Post
Preparing to lay 1200 sq. feet of HomeLegend HDF Engineered Wood Flooring, glueless installation this weekend.

Style, 5/8" Oak Gun Stock Hand Scrapped, 3 1/2 inch width.

Is there any special joint preparation needed for the kitchen area? Do I need to seal the joints in the kitchen area with caulking?
Completed laying 5/8" Oak Gun Stock Hand Scrapped, 3 1/2 inch width snap lock flooring in the living, dinning and kitchen. Easy to install looks great. Didn't do anything different in kitchen.

Transition pieces, T-moldings and stair nosings don't work at all. However, I was able to alter them and made the pieces work.

Installed flooring on stairs running the pieces in the short direction perpendicular to the nosing. Looks great. Used 1 1/4", 18 ga brads and some glue to secure nosings in place. Used same brads to hold flooring in place. Brads aren't even noticable unless you look for them. Very pleased with stairs.

Will send photos if anyone is interested.

Getting ready to start laying the upstairs bed rooms.
 
  #22  
Old 12-21-08, 07:30 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: sw sub chicago
Posts: 1,130
thanx for the update. PLEASE report back in a few months, to let us know how it is holding up to usage. my neighbor installed HL bambo, and he said it dents real easy. i was going to use HL, but my testing found that it dented ""REAL"" easy.

you can post pics by using a hosting site, like photobucket, or whatever. its easy
 
  #23  
Old 02-04-09, 03:47 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: VA
Posts: 2
Home Legend Hardwood Floor



This was a fun project. It was my first time and it turned out to be really easy. There were only two of us. It took 20 hours to complete the project. I highly recommend you go for it if you have it in your plans. You will be amazed how much fun, how easy, and how great it will look when you are done. The instructions were easy to follow and if you get all the materials at once, you really can complete the project on a weekend. (smile) You will need a table saw, so don't try to do it without one. You can see pictures in "photobucket." You bet, I am proud of the handy work and you will be proud of yours too!!!

Home Legend Wood Floor picture by CatChatter25 - Photobucket

PS - Thanks condo-owner for the photo bucket advice.
 

Last edited by CatChatter25; 02-04-09 at 04:01 PM. Reason: Attached Pictures in Photo Bucket
  #24  
Old 02-04-09, 04:09 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: VA
Posts: 2
Smile Choose Home Legend

Mommak57 - Go for it, you will be glad you did. Look at my write-up & photo that are posted. Good luck! CatChatter25
 

Last edited by CatChatter25; 02-04-09 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Added name
  #25  
Old 04-25-09, 06:59 PM
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 1
Thanks to all who have posted on this thread. I installed six cartons of this flooring in a bedroom about 4 weeks ago, and to date am totally satisfied with it. I have always disliked the "hollow" sound that floating floors have, so I glued it down to the existing plywood sub floor. I also used a Loctite product, which was easy, and absolutely ordorless. (honestly next time I plan on using a liquid nails product, but that is just personal preference). I used heavy weights with spreaders on the floor during the project to ensure good bonding, and it worked well. There were a couple of areas right close to the wall where I had to use finishing nails, and the baseboard covers them. So now I guess "time will tell the rest of the story."

One question I do have is this: What is everyone's opinion/or experience on what "maintenance product(s)" to use on the surface? The claim is that the product is finished with multiple coats of "aluminum oxide" which I think is probably a very hard and durable finish. My main concern is to not "experiment" on it, or possibly use something that may harm the finish.

Thanks !!
 
  #26  
Old 05-06-09, 12:38 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Central South Carolina
Posts: 1
Home Legend Click-Lock Handscraped Flooring

I am a contractor working on a condo project and am using this product in most of the condos. I LOVE IT!!! I float it on wood subflooring as well as concrete floors. I prefer not to use the glue-down method as it is much easier to lay down a moisture barrier (for concrete installation) and then install the wood flooring. I also live with it in my personal condo and it is quite solid and very durable, even with a 70 pound dog. Highly recommend this product.
 
  #27  
Old 05-07-09, 12:19 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: new york
Posts: 1
Floating Engineerred Hardwood, Home Legend

I just bought 18 boxes of Home Legend Santos Mahogany Engineered Hardwood Flooring (Floating) and I have a question.
Since most of you bought the flooring from the same brand, the design for Click and lock should be similar. When you lock the two floorings, are they suppose to snap real tight? I can see the groove on one end (the short width end) fits right into the notch of the other, however they aren’t “locking.” A small force can separate them. Am I doing it wrong? I even tried the 20 degree angle that the instruction says to lock them and same thing. I tried hammering also, no difference.
Are they suppose to lock real tight or just hold each other slightly?
Any feedback would be appreciated.
 
  #28  
Old 07-08-09, 07:55 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: United States
Posts: 1
Home legend hardwood flooring in bathroom

Has anyone used Home Legend engineered hardwood in a bathroom?? I'm trying to get some pros and cons for my project. I'm renovating a second floor bathroom in a 1940's house. I was wondering if this product would be a good canidate for floooring in the bathroom. Any input would be appreciated!!
Thank you,
Paul
 
  #29  
Old 07-10-09, 09:57 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 3
Smile

Thx for sharing ur confidence on quality & durability of HL product line. I am interested to know if you have chosen flooring products in your business that are safe for "Aging-In-Place" condo remodels? I am having a difficult time finding anyone that sells a penetrated finish in an affordable engineered product. As beautiful as hand scraped planks are, the uneven surface does contribute to falls, especially for those who suffer w/neuropathy. If you have suggestions or know of a resource, please share! Thx & enjoy t'beauty of t'day.
 
  #30  
Old 09-05-09, 01:51 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: WA
Posts: 1
Easy installation?

I bought some of the Gunstock Oak click lock flooring but am having a hard time installing. The instructions say that the end pieces should lock together but they don't. The sides lock together fine but I don't think the installation will work correctly with being able to lock the ends.

Has any one else had this problem?

Thanks,Steve
 
  #31  
Old 09-25-09, 01:58 PM
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 1
I tried a couple of rows and found some of the pieces that were "locked" are coming loose. I'm using a wedge and following the instructions. If anyone has an easy way to make sure they stay locked, please post it.
 
  #32  
Old 10-23-09, 01:49 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1
Home Legends Engineered Flooring

We looked at this product awhile back. The Home Depot Sales Person said it was a poorly made product, that the center (not the outer surface) was of a MDF and so if any water/fluid at all seeped down in or came up from underneath, it would not hold up. My husband's a woodworker and for us it totally made sense, but we loved it so took a sample home to "play with." We dropped several sharp or hard items on it (we have lots 4 kids and several dogs and cats.) We also used sharp things to "scratch" the surface. It held up decently to the dropping of items (such as can food and batteries) with a couple of slight dents but scratched fairly easily with a sharp object (paperclip and screw driver.) We did, however, soak the entire piece completely submerged in water for 24 hours and then 48 hours with no visual damage or seemingly structural damage or warping. Still, we were concerned about the scratching and durability (I think of wood in general.) Has anyone actually installed it yet and what are your wear and tear reports?

Thanks,

Susan
 
  #33  
Old 11-02-09, 08:57 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 1
difficulty with installation

I just bought 10 boxes of the Home Legend Gunstock Oak and I'm having trouble putting them together. The planks would not lock tightly as said in the instruction
Anyone who installed this and have any advice?
Thanks in advance
 
  #34  
Old 11-14-09, 10:10 AM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SC
Posts: 2
Stay away from Home legend

The Home Legend products do not hold up well at all. Also, they do not stand behind their warranty. Dents and scratches very easily! My finish has worn out in just over a year. Do yourself a favor and go with a different brand. I am very disappointed in my flooring choice! Company refuses to stand behind their product.
 
  #35  
Old 11-16-09, 09:21 AM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SC
Posts: 2
Stay FAR FAR away from Home Legend Products!!!

On 8/23/08, I purchased from Home Depot (HD) 27 boxes of engineered, 25 year warranty, click together hardwood Santos Mahogany flooring along with reducers and T-moldings. The flooring was professionally installed one week later. Prior to the install, my spaniel was groomed and nails clipped as recommended in the Home Legend instructions given to us by the HD sales department. After a few days, we noticed scratches in the wood and after a few weeks, the scratches were becoming much more prominent. I contacted the store to let them know the situation and that I was not happy with the scratches and softness of the wood. HD tried to contact Home Legend for weeks with no reply. We were all frustrated. I was kept informed by HD that Home Legend would not return their calls. Finally, I just gave up and so did HD. Over the last year and 4 mths, the floor scratches and finish have got much worse. Its embarrassing to have company over! This wood should be in a home with NO pets and should be clearly stated as such in their literature. No matter how short the nails are trimmed, scratches, indentations and finish wear will occur. I specifically read through the instructions prior to purchasing to make sure it was OK for pets. All it says is "Keep your pets nails trimmed" which I do. Now I have this hideous floor and the company will not stand behind their warranty, not to mention the creaking and cracking as you walk over it. It is unfair that I paid out over two thousand hard earned dollars for inferior wood flooring. This flooring is for looking at, not walking on.
Home Legend sent out a rep to look at my floor. In his report he states "The doors and windows were open and it had been raining". This is a false statement. No windows were open and I only opened the doors when he arrived to let more sunshine in so he could clearly see the floors. It was a beautiful day! The only rain he mentioned was the rain he drove through on his 4 hour trip to my house. It was very sunny when he arrived and had not been raining. His conclusion was "The scratches are locally caused on the site after installation". Well of course they were caused after installation, I didn't buy used flooring! All damage is caused AFTER installation and that goes without saying. He also failed to mention how bad the finish was or the creaking and cracking noise and didn't give an explanation for either. When I specifically pointed out the noise, he stated, "Yeah, I noticed that". The inspection was a joke. I have contacted the Better Business Bureau. I suggest anyone else with problems do the same. Company's don't learn unless you put pressure on them.
 
  #36  
Old 04-05-10, 07:17 PM
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 1
Perhaps the product quality has gotten worse over the years.

We have purchased and installed 1600 square feet in our home and it creaks all over the place. After reviewing the posts in this thread it seems that it wasn't until 2009 that the problems started: like the end pieces not linking together and the creating noises. The earlier posts don't mention these things.

It's really pretty and so far it's holding up as well as I would expect for hardwood flooring (we have a 60 pound dog and 3 kids under age 13). There are a few scratches, but it's still nice after 5 months. Just the creaking bother's me. We purchased Floor Muffler which is suppose to make the floating floors sound more sturdy and I think it does,...but the CREAKING! Please contact us if you have any comments about this flooring.
 

Last edited by the_tow_guy; 09-09-11 at 05:16 AM. Reason: Not necessary to quote entire posts.
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
'