Engineered floor soft spots, popping

Reply

  #1  
Old 05-20-08, 12:29 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5
Engineered floor soft spots, popping

We installed Bruce engineered laminate a few weeks ago (glued-down, over concrete), and despite my best efforts, I didn't find the low spots to fill before laying the wood. Anyway, now that the flooring is down we have a couple of spots that are soft when you walk on 'em, and make a popping sound when you step off.

I have been told that there is an epoxy that can be injected to fill the void, after drilling small holes in the floor. Anyone have any suggestions?

BTW, I did a quick search and didn't find an answer. If this issue has been addressed elsewhere, please point me in that direction.

Thanks,
l
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 06-07-08, 02:04 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 12
Glue injection kits. DriTac probably makes the best and easiest one to use. ONLY for engineered floors.


NoAds.com
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 06-18-08 at 10:49 AM. Reason: Advertising not permitted. Removed link.
  #3  
Old 06-28-08, 09:34 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5
Originally Posted by HardwoodGuy View Post
Glue injection kits. DriTac probably makes the best and easiest one to use. ONLY for engineered floors.
Thanks, HG.

I used DriTac's Engineered Wood Floor Repair Kit with good success, and now will be ordering a couple more quarts of the adhesive to fix all the rest of the soft spots... The repairs I’ve done so far turned out really well. I was initially a little worried about drilling holes in my new flooring, but the holes are really unobtrusive, especially if the filler is a good color match. The holes are far less obtrusive than the soft spots.

Very nice kit, but I'll include a couple of notes below for anyone that might be considering this product.

Oh, and DriTac also makes a DriTac Solid Wood & Bamboo Floor Repair Kit.

Notes on use of the DriTac Engineered Wood Floor Repair Kit:

1. There is a note on the top of the bottle of adhesive that say's, "DO NOT USE DRITAC RS-1 ENGINEERED WOOD FLOOR REPAIR KIT OVER SEALED CONCRETE. FOR REPAIRS OVER SEALED CONCRETE USE DIRTAC SW-1 SOLID WOOD AND BAMBOO FLOOR REPAIR KIT.” However, it doesn’t say anything about that on their web site, so you might not find that out until after you’ve ordered the wrong kit.

2. The instructions say to first locate the loose areas or hollow spots, but didn’t say how. Being left to my imagination, I started out tapping on the floor with my finger and listening for changes in the sound. After about two minutes my fingertip was sore, and I started using my knuckle, just to get it sore (what can I say, I’m a desk jockey). So I started using a golf ball. This worked really well. Maybe too well. Pretty soon I had tape all over the floor outlining small to large spots where the glue didn’t adhere ‘good enough.’ Once I noticed how many spots I was defining, and how many of them didn’t ‘feel’ soft when I walked on them, I started only outlining the spots I could ‘feel’ or hear (a popping sound when I step off of a spot). My plan is to fill all the spots I can feel, and then go back and fill in the rest until I use up the adhesive.

3. The instructions say to inject adhesive until you feel back pressure. I couldn’t really feel any back pressure, but found that if I tapped on the flooring I could tell by the sound how far the adhesive had traveled. Once the adhesive had traveled to the taped perimeter, I figured the void was full. Then as a double check (after I wiped the excess adhesive off of the flooring) I pushed down on the flooring very slightly to see if the adhesive was forced back out of the hole. Oh, and don’t insert the syringe tip all the way against the concrete, or you will definitely feel back pressure... You have to insert it far enough that the adhesive doesn’t flow out on top of the floor, but not so far that the concrete blocks the tip.

4. The instructions say to tap the dowel into place and then cut it off flush. I couldn’t think of a way to do this cleanly, without damaging the floor finish, so I set up my little X-Acto miter box and cut ‘em off to about 1/4” (I have 3/8” planks) before I installed them.

5. The instructions say that the dowels ‘need to be tapered with a knife or sandpaper’. Don’t bother with the sandpaper. I chucked the dowel up in my drill and spun it against 80 grit sandpaper, only to discover that this, too, was a waste of time. Just use a utility knife to sharpen the end like a pencil. Sharpen before you cut to length, so that you have something to hold on to.

6. They supply a punch to sink the dowels, but it’s a little small. On several of the ones that I did the punch drove into the dowel like a nail, rather than driving the dowel down. I think I’ll go buy a 3/32 (or slightly smaller) drift punch while I’m waiting for more adhesive.
 
  #4  
Old 12-06-10, 05:09 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 1
more help needed

we didn't buy the kit.. just the glue.. we already had everything else included in the kit. we used it on Saturday and today i tested the area and still hear the squeek?? can't figure out what we might have done wrong? we inserted the glue, plugged the area, and didn't walk on it for 36-48 hours

please help
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
'