leveling concrete subfloor

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  #1  
Old 06-16-08, 09:20 AM
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leveling concrete subfloor

Im still in the process of laying my floors, some rooms completed. Floating laminate over concrete slab. Ive preped the floors and used patch to fill in the major low spots. There were some dips that were barely noticable when measuring with my level. They were so minute that I couldnt even slide a dime between the level and the floor. I though that the padding would compensate for the very minute dips, however, when walking on the floor you can definately feel the floor sink in those spots. So, not a huge deal, I just have to do more leveling work. My question is... is there a faster, better way than mixing up the patch and pouring and scraping. It is taking way too much time, and I am becoming very impatient. I have heard of Self-level or auto-level, which is watery as apposed to past-like consistancy. I havent found it at lowes or HD and have been advised not to use it. I dont see why that woulndt work just fine. Advice? use the self-level or no... and why.

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Old 06-16-08, 07:31 PM
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Self leveling compound is not hard to use, just a little messy if you don't prep your floor good. HD and Lowes sells it and it's in the flooring department, usually near the thinset mortar.

I know HD has it, and it's made by Custom Building Products. You HAVE to get the primer/promoter for it as well.

You definetly can use this stuff, not sure why people said you shouldn't.
 
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Old 06-16-08, 09:29 PM
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i would throw the leveler down and just use a 6 or 8 inch mud blade and level it that way. Adding the promotor will help with strength...leveler is a mess and you only have so much "workable" time with it.. BUT i would suggest...seal your leveler after your done. I have seen in some cases..years down the road...the leveler turn to dust and your back to square one. Sealing has been the only answer.
 
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Old 06-17-08, 07:12 PM
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a neighbor of mine just did engineered, click together wood floors, in his condo, concrete slab. he said he used the self leveler, and double checked it for flatness. and used a thin padding under it. ... as i was looking at it, he was walking on it. i could see it bowing where he walked.
 
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Old 06-17-08, 07:56 PM
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It's normal for engineered and laminates to bow a little while walking on them. You get into trouble when you see the seams seperating and/or cracking sounds.
 
  #6  
Old 06-18-08, 02:29 PM
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self-leveler

well. that didnt go how I planned. I purchased Level-quick from the flooring place. It is a powder that you mix with water. I followed the directions to a T and it was not as watery as I had imagined. I poured it on the floor and it didnt spread out... so In a mad rush I had to help it to spread before it hardened. Now I have uneven spots where I was trying to spread it out. Im hoping that tonight I can scrape the uneven spots with my floor scraper and use the patch to finish off the areas near the walls that it didnt quite make it to. Any suggestions? A friend told me he had used a self-leveler that came pre-mixed in a 5gal bucket, and only had to pour it... a very watery mix that immediately spread to the walls. Should I mix it more watery? or where can I find the pre-mixed?
 
  #7  
Old 06-20-08, 05:39 AM
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what next?

im trying to decide what to do next. I can scrape off the leveler. it seems to be just a bit softer than the concrete floor, I think i can get it all up, but it will take a few days work. Or I can mix another batch and carefully pour it in the empty spaces and on top of the current pour to try to level it out. Or I can just use patch to do it, but its gonna take alot since it is now less flat than before.... any suggestions?
 
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Old 08-02-08, 07:10 AM
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so, how did it go ? .............................
 
  #9  
Old 08-05-08, 09:48 AM
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I am going to start off by saying this:

EVERY manufacture of harwood flooring, whether laminate or solid, has specifications for the amount of DEFLECTION allowed over a particular circumferance. ie some manufactures state the following: "Subfloor surface must be flat and maximum tolerance is 3/16 per
10 area... (This is taken from Mirage Engineered Installation Instructions at http://www.miragefloors.com/pdf/guid...tion-guide.pdf

**So you want to check with the manufacture for subfloor requirements (usually you can find them in the installation instruction sheets, or simply call the manufacture directly).

After leveling using a self leveling compound (I suggest which still needs to be screeded to the get level to the outside walls (a straight 2"x3"x8' stud works great, just need to work you way OUT of the room to an exit!!! ) You then (after the leveler is dried sufficiently) need to SEAL this with a sealer like:

http://www.bostik-us.com/products/in...bCategoryId=82

You may be best served by bringing in a flooring company that is well versed with leveling a subfloor. You quite possibly will save money, and definetly TIME, in the long run! Get a FEW estimates from some local flooring companies.

Go to http://www.miragefloors.com There is a wealth of information for do it yourselfer's... tons of brochures and lots of pictures showing you how to install a hardwood floor or engineered floor!

Hope I helped and did not scare you away from venturing into this, but you definetly want to protect your investment.

Greg - Retired Hardwood Floor installer/refinisher
Maine
 
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