Laminate Flooring Novice- Few Questions

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Old 07-14-08, 08:47 AM
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Laminate Flooring Novice- Few Questions

Hi All,

This is my first foray into laminate flooring. I would like to ask a few questions and would greatly appreciate any help/suggestions you can provide.


1. One of the rooms has the patio door and going by the suggestions, I should be laying the planks perpendicular to the patio door. I am assuming that i should leave 1/4" of space between the patio door and the planks. What should I put to cover that gap?

2. The rooms are fairly rectangle in size. One side of one of the room leads into concrete floor and there is a weird cut over there. I am assuming that T-molding needs to be put here. At one end of this weird cut it leaves an square inch gap. How do I fill this? I know this might be tough to understand. I can explain in more detail, if needed.

3. My house is on slab foundation and these rooms are on the slab. I am assuming I need vapor barrier. Will any do as different stores carry these but at different prices.

4. Also Pergo accolade comes with an underlayment, is this good enough or do i need to think about additional underlayment over the vapor mil. I don't need to be fancy.

5. These two rooms are side by side and I am thinking of laying the laminates continuosly without creating any dividers between the room to give an impression of openness and large rooms. The longest(both rooms combined) will be 265". Do you think it is ok to do this or should be putting transition moldings in the middle.

Thanks again for the help.
 
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Old 07-14-08, 02:27 PM
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Welcome to the forums

Have you actually chosen the type of laminate wood floors you are going to buy?

1. Whatever manufacturer you go with they should have the option to buy the correct transition for this.

2. A photo would help better (probably) Actually, it's just b/c I don't understand. Maybe others will.

3. Yes, you will definitely need a vapor barrier. Whichever manufacturer you choose, they should have the proper vapor barrier for it. I believe any warrenties will be voided if you do not use their vapor barrier or follow their specifications/intstructions. Whichever it is, they will specifically tell you what's ok or not. I would definitely follow their instructions.

4. I read the instructions here: http://www.pergo.com/images/pdfs/Web...ll_Acc_8in.pdf and it says you don't need anything else. Just curious, why do you think you need anything additional?

5. I don't know

I'm sure the pros will chime in here for ya. Just wanted to give you some basics.
 
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Old 07-14-08, 02:42 PM
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I'll add a little:

1. One of the rooms has the patio door and going by the suggestions, I should be laying the planks perpendicular to the patio door. I am assuming that i should leave 1/4" of space between the patio door and the planks. What should I put to cover that gap?
Yes, leave a gap per instructions and install a t-molding strip.

3. My house is on slab foundation and these rooms are on the slab. I am assuming I need vapor barrier. Will any do as different stores carry these but at different prices.
A basic 6 mil poly sheathing will work fine.

4. Also Pergo accolade comes with an underlayment, is this good enough or do i need to think about additional underlayment over the vapor mil. I don't need to be fancy.
Nothing else needed, except the vapor barrier you already mentioned.

5. These two rooms are side by side and I am thinking of laying the laminates continuosly without creating any dividers between the room to give an impression of openness and large rooms. The longest(both rooms combined) will be 265". Do you think it is ok to do this or should be putting transition moldings in the middle.
Yes, you can do this to minimize the use of those expensive transition packs.

A few tips though.....

Make absolute sure your subfloor is FLAT! Any dips or high spots will make your laminate bounce to much and the seams will seperate.

Lastly, in my opinion, warranties that these manufacturers have are pointless. If you read the warranty, you will see they cover .....basically nothing except the wear finish. They do not cover scratches, dents, water damage, and installations done not per their instructions.
 
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Old 07-15-08, 05:09 AM
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Thanks

Thank You for the responses.

I will post the picture of the weird cut I was talking about.

Yesterday I ripped the carpet out of one of the rooms.(again for the first time - Lots of learning going on here)

I had two other questions based on the ripping experience.

1. As you experts already know there was a wooden thin piece which holds the carpet. I yanked those out of the concrete floor. They were nailed in. When I yanked the nails, it made small holes with adjoining concrete yanked out.. Do i need to fill these gaps or do you think this should be fine.

2. Also as mentioned earlier, I have a slab floor. One side is the exterior wall and I see that this wall is not attached to the concrete floor. Do I need to do anything like attaching it with caulk, etc

Please let me know if the pictures will help in either cases.

Thanks again for your expert comments.
 
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Old 07-15-08, 02:57 PM
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Unless they are large you don't have to fill the holes left in the slab when you remove the tack strips. Be sure to clean up any debris from the slab and vacuum around the edges. I have found a lot of crud under the edge of the wallboard left over from construction. Of course as mentioned earlier the slab must be quite flat. I found that slab preparation was the most difficult part of laying the floor. Perhaps you will be lucky and your slab will be fairly flat.
 
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Old 07-15-08, 05:18 PM
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2. Also as mentioned earlier, I have a slab floor. One side is the exterior wall and I see that this wall is not attached to the concrete floor. Do I need to do anything like attaching it with caulk, etc
Definetly gonna need a picture of this......your exterior walls will be sitting on footing, which will be a seperate concrete pour then your floor. Often times the small gap between these two pours have styrofoam between them......
 
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Old 07-16-08, 06:39 AM
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Pictures

Hi,

Please find link for the pictures of both the gap between the wall and the floor and the weird cut(1 inch)

http://picasaweb.google.com/prashantgoyal/Flooring

Please let me know if you are not able to see the pics.
Thanks again for the help.
 
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Old 07-16-08, 04:26 PM
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Looks normal...wallboard or plaster walls do not go all the way to the floor. Baseboards cover this gap. Your bottom plates (2x4's) should be bolted to the concrete footing, this is what holds your walls.
 
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Old 07-18-08, 07:24 PM
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Thanks Mark for your responses.

For the nails left over from the carpet strip, should i nail them in the concrete or yank them out.

Also, I have a wood plank which is glued to the concrete floor between the two rooms - I tried taking it out with a hammer and a chisel and it is not coming out. Is there a way i can ease this effort. Any chemical etc which can be applied to remove this wood plank? Any advise.

Thanks again
 
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Old 07-21-08, 05:42 AM
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Molding Suggestions

Hi,

I was able to rip off the planks and I also went ahead and yanked off the nails from the tack strip of the carpet.

I had two additional things and I have attached the pics of them.

1. After ripping off the carpet, I see that the concrete base of my room and the concrete tile in the kitchen(other room) seems to be broken with a ellipse shape(2" in width). I was thinking of putting a T-Molding here but with this kind of a ellipse shape, I am not sure if T-Molding will do. Any ideas?

2. I have put the picture of the base of the patio door. Please suggest what type of molding should be used at this place.

http://picasaweb.google.com/prashantgoyal/Flooring2

Thanks again for the help,
 
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Old 07-21-08, 07:25 AM
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You can make a straighter edge on the tile with an angle grinder and diamond wheel. To addreass the area at the walls run your vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) up the walls a little and hold it there with masking tape. After installing your floor hold the plastic in place with the baseboards. Just make sure the plastic isn't sticking out of the top of the base. Perimeter walls are a potential moisture problem
 
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Old 07-24-08, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by sikkim View Post
For the nails left over from the carpet strip, should i nail them in the concrete or yank them out.
I would remove the nails...
 
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Old 07-24-08, 07:44 AM
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Thanks All for your advice and guidance,

Finally my laminate planks are due to arrive this friday. I am planning to take the plunge this weekend.

I had a question on the elliptical cut on the concrete tile. There used to be a wooden plank which was glued there. Do you think I could use the same as the transition rather than the transtion molding. The height of the concrete seems like 10mm which might be the same as the plank thickness.

Again the pics of the elliptical cut are here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/prashantgoyal/Flooring2

Also, any suggestions around the patio door. Should i have the poly film all the way to the door and run the laminate flooring and use T-molding or should I use some 2/4' tiles available at Home depot and glue them at the entrance of patio and then use the T-molding as a transtion to them.

Thanks again
 
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