laminate floor problem. Floor not even

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Old 08-05-08, 09:55 AM
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laminate floor problem. Floor not even

Hi

Our house has a chimney that runs thru the middle of house. The chimney was framed and sub floor put down.

The floor is uneven in front of chimney, almost a 1/4" in the middle between wall of chimney and far wall. I also think there is a slight inclince on the floor also.

How can I fix these problems?

Also, while I have your attention, the hall way has an angle just after the fireplace. I tried a couple of time, wrecking several pieces, to cut an angle that would be flush against wall. Is there a trick to this?

thanks for any help.

Jim
 
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Old 08-07-08, 10:36 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 91
Originally Posted by james poole View Post
Hi

Our house has a chimney that runs thru the middle of house. The chimney was framed and sub floor put down.

The floor is uneven in front of chimney, almost a 1/4" in the middle between wall of chimney and far wall. I also think there is a slight inclince on the floor also.

How can I fix these problems?

Also, while I have your attention, the hall way has an angle just after the fireplace. I tried a couple of time, wrecking several pieces, to cut an angle that would be flush against wall. Is there a trick to this?

thanks for any help.

Jim

Jim, as far as fixing the problem of the 1/4" height difference, you will need to either float the subfloor with a leveling compound (see previous posts, and you will see the task is not as easy as it sounds) or lay cedar shingles (cut to the proper thickness, and layed under the flooring in the areas necessary to absorb the height difference). You may be best served to bring in a professional installer, just my opinon without seeing the problem. If nothing else get some estimates to fix the problem as well as installing the flooring (free estimates are usually available).

As far as transfering the angle of the wall to the angle you need to cut the flooring... I assume that you removed the baseboard molding (if installed), this will allow for some margin of error and also the expansion gap that you need for the flooring. You can either use a piece of cardstock paper and mark the angle with a pencil and cut it out with scissors and then transfer that angle to the board(s) you are cutting. Or, as professional installers will do, use a bevel gauge. See this link to understand what I am talking about in regards to a bevel gauge: This is from the Woodsmith Store, a store I buy my woodworking tools from, or at least I use to before I was forced to retire...

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/woods...t-5002b100.jpg

Simple instruction to use the sliding bevel gauge:

Unlock the T-bevel wing nut or thumbscrew. Lay the T-bevel flat on the angle you wish to mimic. Adjust the bevel to match the angle. Lock the T-bevel into place with the wing nut or thumbscrew. Lay the T-bevel on the wood where you would like to transfer the angle and then simply mark the wood with the angle. Depending on the degree of the angle you can make the cut on the mitre saw, or simply use a jig saw. Remember to leave enough of an expansion gap against the wall. Any imperfections in your cut will be hidden when you put the base molding into place over the flooring! So you do not have to be tight and precise with your cut!


Good luck with your project

Greg (Retired Hardwood Professional)
Maine
 
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