Bruce Lock n Fold 5" Plank

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  #1  
Old 08-05-08, 12:02 PM
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Bruce Lock n Fold 5" Plank

Has anyone used the Bruce Lock n Fold 5" value grade plank? Looking for pro's and con's on durability, aesthetic's, etc. I've also seen the "value" grade for much less, any feedback would be appreciated.
 
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Old 08-07-08, 10:49 AM
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VALUE GRADE... You get what you pay for, that is how I will start out my reply to this topic...

If you go with the Value Grade, make sure you order 6-8%% for waste factor. You will find colr variations are more common among one board to another, so open all boxes/packages (leave one box sealed just in case you dont need it and you can return it! Spread the flooring out and arrange the flooring based on the color variations. Indeed the cost for Value Grade versus Select Grade is cheaper, but again - you get what you pay for. You may find the finish quality is certainly not up to par in comparison to the Select Grade, but that is ONE reason why you allow for 6-8% waste factor instead of 3% with the Select Grade.

As far as the floor holding up - I assume that you are paying between $1.50 and 1.75 per sq ft... You are getting what you are paying for (again), but it is a floor that should last you some time, as long as you keep the dirt up off the floor and you do not have any humidity problems, or water spills.


Greg -Retired Flooring Professional
Maine
 
  #3  
Old 08-07-08, 02:31 PM
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Thanks for the tips, Greg. I certainly do understand "you get what you pay for"!

Since you are a retired pro, I have an installation question for you. The rooms I am going to install the hardwood floor have carpet on them now. When I remove the carpet, there is a +/- 1/2" gap between the bottom of the base moulding and subfloor (wood or concrete subfloor). I don't want to remove the moulding and risk damaging it (it's very nice and I haven't seen it anywhere if it needs to be replaced). When I put the underlayment and the floor down, it can still fit below the moulding, in other words, I can still slide the underlayment and board under the base moulding. Here's what I'd like to do, use a thin piece of scrap wood (1/8" - 1/4") as wedges for expansion and to have something to keep the floor from sliding under the moulding. Then use quarter round or shoe moulding around the perimeter when complete. Tough to explain, but I hope you understand.

Thanks, Tim
 
  #4  
Old 08-11-08, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by memphilly View Post
Thanks for the tips, Greg. I certainly do understand "you get what you pay for"!

Since you are a retired pro, I have an installation question for you. The rooms I am going to install the hardwood floor have carpet on them now. When I remove the carpet, there is a +/- 1/2" gap between the bottom of the base moulding and subfloor (wood or concrete subfloor). I don't want to remove the moulding and risk damaging it (it's very nice and I haven't seen it anywhere if it needs to be replaced). When I put the underlayment and the floor down, it can still fit below the moulding, in other words, I can still slide the underlayment and board under the base moulding. Here's what I'd like to do, use a thin piece of scrap wood (1/8" - 1/4") as wedges for expansion and to have something to keep the floor from sliding under the moulding. Then use quarter round or shoe moulding around the perimeter when complete. Tough to explain, but I hope you understand.

Thanks, Tim
Tim,
You are doing the right thing. Sometimes it is just BEST NOT to remove the baseboard molding, like in your case - it may be hard to find if you damage it!

When you install the shoe molding (Quarter Round - Make sure that you do NOT nail it to the floating floor! Either cement it to the baseboard or finish nail it to the baseboard. For obvious reasons - this is very important.

Good Luck, let me know how it comes out!

Greg
Maine
 
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