First attempt at Engineered Wood install...


Old 09-29-08, 09:31 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3
First attempt at Engineered Wood install...


First...sorry for so long of a post.

I'm considering purchasing and installing myself some hand scraped engineered flooring from Home Depot (I've seen varying input on HD's floor..but I'm thinking this is a better one than some have spoke of. It's 3.39/Sq Ft, vs 1.99 on the others I've read about.)

I've done some reading here and through other searches regarding install. I was initially planning on floating it, but now am considering glue or staples.

I am not putting it on concrete. It is going on sub-floor. The usual wood course compressed fiber stuff (forget what it's actually called). Carpet is there now, although my kitchen has some pretty nice 12 year old same type of thing down that I will be replacing. Here's my three areas of concern/questions.

Glue vs Staple vs. Float
I've decided against float because I have a fireplace that separates the dining and living room, which has marble tile around the base. If I float, I am presuming I would need to space out from that and use T molding. I really want a floor to tile transition, edge to edge, w/o a T molding.

That leads me to thinking I want to put the floor in with glue or staples.

Any comments on that? One or the other better? It seems to me that staples would be less messy and somewhat easier.

This is being done in a split level. I have 7 stairs going up, and 7 going down. I am thinking that I want to have wood on those stairs too.

At HD, they didn't think that stair material was available for this floor. They had prefinished stair materials, and some that matched in color pretty good, although it wasn't hand scraped or distressed. So, I'm not thinking this is a good route.

Do you recon I'll need to find 3/4" hard wood in order to do this right (foregoing the 5/8" engineered from HD)? Any suggestions on brands to look at or other thoughts?

Starting point
I've read that you should start from an outside wall as it will be closer to straight/square.

Considering that I will be hitting one set of stairs that go down, I'll need to have spacing right where the stair header/nose will be placed correctly at the top. I'm concerned that will come out right, especially for click type of flooring.

It doesn't seem like a good idea to start at the top of the stairs, but that seems most likely way to have the location/spacing for the stair header to land correctly. (Again, I'm considering that click type of tuff wouldn't be able to be this would eliminate the click mating. Of course, I understand at one wall edge I would likely be cutting it, but the click mate isn't necessary there.)

I thought about placing the nose, then measure across to what should be the outside starting wall, and determine where the first board would land, and how wide it would be. But I am concerned that the widths of the boards would not be exact. So, for example, if I hae 5" width boards, and measure across, and determine for example that there would be 43 boards, and a part of another, that the measurement would not work out due to fluctuations in the actual widths of the boards.

Any thoughts or recommendations?
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Old 10-01-08, 08:49 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3
No thoughts from anyone posted I see, but I have done some more research and have resolved some of it.

I don't think I'll be able to use the click flooring from Home Depot. They tell me that is designed to float only. Can't find any web site for that flooring so can't verify anything on it. Also, they don't have any matching stair risers for that flooring.

The other issue I have resolved, I think..., is that I think the best thing to use for this project is 3/8" hard wood flooring (maybe engineered, maybe solid). This way I can mate it to the existing marble that borders the filreplace, and the thickness will be the same. And I can staple it to the floor.

The only thing that I'm not sure about now (at least from my earlier post) is the starting point. I still think that measuring from the steps to the outside wall to determine what width of the first board should be, and start at the outside wall with a trimmed board if necessary, is the best thing to do for starting point.

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