Hardwood refinish

Reply

  #1  
Old 11-23-08, 11:50 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3
Hardwood refinish

Hi...in the process of refinishing my oak hardwoods. Sanded and stained and applied one layer of oil based poly. I just got done sanding this layer using 120 grit on an oscillating stand up sander.

After clearing off the dust it appears that I have sanded off some of the stain. Is this the case or do I just need to reapply the poly and the color will return? Help!
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 11-23-08, 01:28 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,566
Welcome to the forums!

Hard to say without seeing it. What you can do is take a damp thinner rag and wipe the area down. If it all looks the same when wet with thinner - you should be good to go. If the area you are concerned about looks lighter in color while wet with thinner, you'll probably need to restain.
 
  #3  
Old 11-23-08, 05:23 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3
Thanks for the feedback. Wiped the entire floor down with a damp towel and it is definitely lighter. Should I have not used the orbital sander to abrade this coat?

I'll assume it is ok for me to re-stain despite already putting down a layer of poly as it appears I sanded through it.
 
  #4  
Old 11-23-08, 07:02 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3
OK.....tested a corner and the color came back with another coat of poly. phew, didn't want to re-stain at all.

This project is frustrating at times, but spent only $350 to refinish 750 square feet. I learned a lot. Sanding is the hardest and lengthiest part of this job. I was talked into an orbital sander at Home Depot, although now I think that the drum would have been much faster and easier. Home D will do a 'contracting' deal where you take home everything you need and they charge you when you return the equipment. This is an easy way to take home way more stuff than you need and not have to return again till the project is done. My initial 'estimate was $450, but with returned supplies it came down. I burned through a brand new palm sander (and got a refund).

Sanded with 60 then 80 then 120. I use a lot of 60 grit pads, recommend changing often for a quicker job. Again, the drum sander probably would have made this part easier. Did just one layer of stain, turned out a little darker than I thought it would. Painted on with a brush and wiped excess with 'bag o rags'. Home d. sold me something to put between the stain and poly, but I skipped it and returned it because all instructions stated that it goes on bare wood.

One coat of poly applied with lambs wool applicator and left to dry overnight. I did this layer at noon and attempted to sand in the evening and it was not dry yet, despite the can stating 6-10 hours. Sanded this with the 120 grit and orbital as stated above with the results already stated. This was my freak out point after a week of work. Just finished the second layer of poly and it is looking good! It was difficult to get a thin layer of poly on and I had to watch for pooling.

We'll see what it looks like tomorrow! I am sure there are better ways to spend a week off work, but I am glad it is done.
 
  #5  
Old 11-23-08, 08:01 PM
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 5,074
If you sanded down past the poly and sanded the stain off the floor, then a total resand is in order. 120 is way to aggressive to use to sand between coats, no mater who told you what. 220 is better. You just want to dull the finish and give it a tooth.
 
  #6  
Old 11-24-08, 03:08 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,566
IMO you are better off with the orbital sander. A drum sander cuts fast [and only for the intial sanding] and if you aren't proficent at using one, it's very easy to get an uneven cut =

Humidity and temps can alter drying time but overnight - 24 hrs is always a good rule of thumb.
 
  #7  
Old 11-24-08, 03:17 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 111
If you use the minwax poly for floors you don't have to sand between coats as stated on the can. I think its 12 hours between coats and you don't have to sand. If you wait longer than 12 hours you have to sand between coats.
 
  #8  
Old 11-24-08, 03:36 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,566
That's true of most polys but you still should do a little sanding if you want I nice smooth floor.
 
  #9  
Old 11-25-08, 01:24 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 111
I just did my 2 bedrooms with 3 coats of poly(thinned out with 15% mineral spirits) without sanding between coats and used a flat sponge mop(instead of the linty lambswool applicator) to apply the poly and it came out great. No lint,no bubbles,no runs no errors, smooth as glass.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
'