Different alignments for a floating floor


Old 11-29-08, 11:27 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 11
Different alignments for a floating floor

I am installing a floating floor and I have a narrow passageway which is perpendicular to the main room. I'll be installing the floor lenghthwise in the main room. I am wondering if, aesthetically and technically, there would be any issues if, when I transition into the passageway, I change the alignment so that it's perpendicular to the planks in the main room.

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Old 11-29-08, 07:30 PM
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 78
short answer, no. . .

. . . however for continuity i prefer to keep the orientation the same. you can get a "t- molding" that will accept perpendicular and parallel flooring as it is simply overlapping the flooring. this piece of molding will go directly under where the door will be when it is closed.

there's another method that you can use which is alot more precise and works best with randomly sized tounge and groove. first, do the room with runs parallel to the doorway of the adjoining room. if this is not going to be a floating floor you will have to measure and formulate where the last run will end. you may have to rip down your first run to put the transition in the right place. once that room is done and the last run has it's tounge located right where you want to begin the other room you will begin perpendicular runs. when you get to the doorway have thier tounges lock into the groove of the last run in the first room. this is where the random lengths are best because you will get a better lock into the adjoining board. if the boards are not random than you will have to have at least three fourths of the boards not locked into the groove, this is because it is necessary to stagger the planks. there's another trick that you can do if you have a tablesaw and a chopsaw with very good blades. it involves reproducing (at least) the top part of the groove if you can do the whole grove than do it. you will most likely have to put a tiny bevel on the top of the cut end and seal it. this will result in having more boards locked in to the joint. you will be best served using wood glue, a finish nailer, and some wood putty on all boards that are touching this joint too.

for me this approach is rewarding in self accomplishment alone because nobody else will (most likely) ever notice that the floor/floors are not done the other way as they will only see it how it is.

good luck

Last edited by mikiel; 11-29-08 at 07:50 PM.

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