7" wide brazilian cherry challenges?

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  #1  
Old 01-05-09, 09:27 PM
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7" wide brazilian cherry challenges?

I am getting 3/4" solid 7" wide brazilian cherry flooring. to be installed over above grade plywood subfloor, pneumatic nailer. I have installed 3" and 5" products in the past.

Are there any special challenges with the 7"? Will it be harder to work with/straighten? I would think that the wider it is, the nicer it will look, but I remember reading that wide planks are harder to work with. I am a fairly knowledgable amateur. I don't mind a small challenge, but I don't want to be surprised with something beyond my comfort zone. I am looking for someone who has worked with very hard wood like braz cherry (jatoba) at 7" widths to tell me that either it was no biggie, or that it was a horrible experience that they would not do again.

Also how much should I allow for waste? I was thinking 20%, but the seller is recommending only 5%.
 
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Old 01-12-09, 12:29 AM
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The wider the plank, the greater the chances for cupping and crowning. Wider planks are more dimensionally unstable than less narrow planks. Planks greater than 4" tend to have greater susceptibility to problems. 7" wide planks should be glued with urethane adhesive and nailed. Most recommend additional top nailing. There are many decorative nails available for top nailing.

The standard calculation for waste for wood flooring installation is 5%. This takes into consideration loss for cuts and perhaps the rejected board or two.

Another expectation is that the Brazilian Cherry that comes out of the box will not look like the sample at the store. Brazilian Cherry is very photo sensitive, meaning that it darkens with exposure to light. When Brazilian Cherry is first cut from timber, boards are almost salmon color with dark streaks. The more light, the deeper and richer the reds in the wood. There will be natural variation in coloring and dark streaking in the planks.
 
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Old 01-12-09, 05:06 AM
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thanks 12pole.

I did purchase the flooring. I have worked with brazilian cherry before (as well as american cherry in my living room, dining room, and kitchen cabinets, so I am aware of the color change (which is welcome).

If there are problems with curved wood, I may buy (then resell) a portajack, which I think will solve the problem.
 
  #4  
Old 01-12-09, 10:00 AM
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Cupping and crowning are due to moisture issues. Crawl space should be dry with plastic vapor retarder properly installed. Basement should be dry with humidity maintained 35-55% year round. Interior humidity should be maintained year round 35-55%. Monitor humidity with hygrometer (sold where you buy thermometers). Humidity tends to vary from room to room.

Remember wood is evaluated on its hardness, durability, and stability. Brazilian Cherry is very hard as compared to American Cherry. Durability of any wood is more an issue of durability of finish and proper care and maintenance. Stability tends to vary among wood species as well as width of planks.

Brazilian Cherry or any wood species used to manufacturer wood flooring, if a manufacturered by a reputable mill, should have provided high-quality milling with straight boards. Port-a-Jack was designed to hold boards in place for nailing and is good to hold crooked or bowed boards in place for nailing. Cupping and crowning tend to occur following the installation due to moisture issues.

Acclimating wood in rooms per manufacturer's instructions in rooms where wood is to be installed is important. A moisture test is also important. When installing plank flooring, there should be no greater difference of 2% between plywood subfloor and planks. If greater than 2%, continue to acclimate. HVAC should be running and humidity at 35-55% and temperature around 70.
 
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