oak flooring staples

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  #1  
Old 02-21-10, 11:02 AM
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oak flooring staples

I tried the air stapler out to see how it worked. It put the staples in fully
but also cracked the tongue pretty good. How many cracked shots are too many? I was going to go 1 staple every 10 inches at most.I find that 75-80 psi is plenty. Do your staples crack the tongue alot???
Also my air is the Porter Cable C2002. Are you supposed to put a few drops of oil on the staple gun fitting..? or the compressor hose end at the compressor.??
There is plenty of staple coming out the other side of the 3/4 OSB subfloor.
Are you sure I cant use 1.5 inch?? I am using 3/4 solid red oak.
If I put on the 1/2 inch shoe it would raise the staple towards the top of the board. Would that be better or is that just for other flooring.
The instructions on this HF nailer suck. They hardly say anything.
 
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  #2  
Old 02-21-10, 12:56 PM
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It's best to carry forward on one thread rather than starting another one. A few drops of oil in the fitting where you attach the hose to the gun. If you have staple showing through the osb, and you are using 1 1/2" staples, then yes you can. You want the staple to penetrate on the landing above the tongue. where is yours entering. Penetration is not a problem. You will split tongues as you go, but it's no tragedy. Just keep the gun on target and don't let it ride up on you. Keep it flat on the flooring.
 
  #3  
Old 02-21-10, 02:48 PM
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  #4  
Old 02-21-10, 05:14 PM
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Don't let the foot rock forward. You are hitting almost perfectly. With the shorter staple, you may can reduce your outlet air pressure (not your tank pressure). What kind of subflooring are you installing this on? Looks weird.
 
  #5  
Old 02-22-10, 10:38 AM
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FYI-- stapling "every 10" at most" is pushing it, and likely to allow for excess movement and cause squeaks/creaks. The recommended spacing for fasteners is every 6-8", and within 1-2" of the board ends.

And, yes , 1 1/2" staples are fine.
 
  #6  
Old 03-10-10, 10:40 AM
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I finished my red oak floor. I didnt use 6-8 " spacing or even close.
By the way, the Harbor freight gun I bought ,120$, works well. When I used their staples I was getting jams 6-10 times in a 6 hour session.
When I switched to FastenerUSA 1 1/2 inch with a coating on them,
I didnt have 1 single jam in the last 3 sessions. It worked perfectly.
Dont buy the HF staples.
The floor came out good, not perfect. Will put oil based poly on in May.
Waterbased sucks. It doesnt even look natural at all. Like someone dripped plastic film on it.
The whole 630sf took over 40 hrs including pulling up carpet and nails.
By the time it was done was 3 weeks from the first staple. NOT a small
job. Glad I didnt know.
 
  #7  
Old 03-10-10, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 34chf71 View Post
I finished my red oak floor. I didnt use 6-8 " spacing or even close.
Not to be rude, but I'm not sure why people ask for input from experienced professionals, and then don't take it. You spent 40 hours on this project....so why not do it right? I'm not quite sure what the reasoning was to skimp on fasteners.
 
  #8  
Old 03-10-10, 01:22 PM
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"Will put oil based poly on in May.
Waterbased sucks. It doesnt even look natural at all"


I assume your not leaving the wood raw and using the room - it may need to be resanded if there is traffic and no sealer applied.

If waterbased poly has already been applied, the oil poly won't do a lot for changing the coloring. Waterbased poly just adds a protective film and sheen to the wood. It doesn't alter the color any. Oil base poly over raw wood will bring out the colors naturally in the wood. If waterbase is applied first, the wood is sealed and the oil will have no effect other than ambering some as it ages. Oil base poly also tends to be more durable than waterbased.


btw - I've use HF nails in both my finish nail gun and framing gun and not had any issues [not used professionally]. They cost less than half of what the name brands do although HF doesn't seem to carry all sizes. Never used their staples.
 
  #9  
Old 03-10-10, 02:06 PM
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it came out plenty good for a home project. I didnt pay someone 1000 bucks for it so... Its plenty solid, there are enough staples in it..
One thing I would have done different.. started from both sides to avoid a slight wave in the line by the time I got to the other side, 30 ft.
Also wouldnt use this putty filler for the screw holes because it seems to stain.
I will do a good sanding before I poly in the warm weather. I want it to dry well with the windows open for a week before I live around it. The oil based will give me that warm darkening tone that I like. It will get 2 coats of oil based, nothing else.

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  #10  
Old 03-11-10, 03:54 AM
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IMO you will be better off with 3 coats of poly. Don't forget you need to do a light sanding between coats. 3 coats will give you a better looking finish that will wear longer than 2
 
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