filling gaps along length of t&g hardwood floors

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  #1  
Old 06-12-00, 06:09 AM
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we have recently purchased a 50 year old home.the existing hardwood floor (mixed australian hardwoods) has gaps along the length of the boards of about 3 to 6 mm (1/8 to 1/4 inch). this may have occured through the seasoning of green boards over 50 years or through roughly laying a utility floor to be covered by carpet etc.however we now wish to sand and polish the floor but need a succesfull remedy to fill the gaps between the boards.does any one know of a solution????? please reply a.s.a.p. thank you
john
brisbane,queensland
australia
 
  #2  
Old 06-12-00, 06:34 AM
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Hi John:

Reading your note tells me you're into winter there at home. I'd be very careful about filling in the gaps. This happens to all wood floors. The gaps are due to the wood drying out in the cooler weather when we turn our heating systems on. Tis dries out the air in our homes and causes the floor boards to shrink.

You'll probably find that when summer returns along with warmer moister weather, the gaps will shrink.

If you fill in the gaps now, next summer, you might end up with an uneven floor because the boards will swell and buckle.

Ted
 
  #3  
Old 06-30-00, 01:13 PM
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I have this problem too.
I have a rustic mountain cabin rebuilt 3 years ago after a forest fire. The lumberyard sold me wet wood and the handyman who laid it didnt know to let it dry. It now
has 1/4" or more gaps that fill with dirt and
sand and I can't clean it. Repeat this is
a cabin. It is summer. Temperature is
-80 in winter, +100 in summer. What can I
fill gaps with that will expand and contract
? If I use sawdust with white glue or sawdust mixed with floor finish will the floors buckle? What floor finish will
withstand sandy boot bottoms. I used 4 coats
MINWAX and it wore off in a month.

Dear moderator. Thanks for any answers.
Please edit or move this as appropriate.
I am unfamiliar with you site's rules.
 
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Old 06-30-00, 02:42 PM
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I've heard Jeff Hosking (flooring advisor to This Old House) answer this question a number of times. He often recommends filling the gaps with rope.

Here's a quote from Jeff: "You might try staining rope to match the floor color and gluing it into the seams between the wide pine flooring. We have been using that method for over 60 years. Looks nice when done also. Purchase rope that is a little wider than the seam and apply a bead of yellow glue to each side of the joint. Then using a wide masons chisle and a hammer drive it just slightly below the surface of the floor all the way along the seam. Filling the joints with wood filler will not work it will break out within weeks. And inserting long thin shims of wood can be dangerous if an edge comes loose overtime creating large slivers in one's foot. Ps: Before filling the seams, Take a good look between the planks. Over the years we found a lot of old coins that made our customers' day!"
 
  #5  
Old 07-10-00, 06:30 PM
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HELLO JOHN
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM BUT I SOLVED IT VERY SIMPLY
THE PROCESS IS CALLED DUSTING
OLD MASTERCRAFTSMAN USED IT
IT GOES LIKE THIS
ONCE YOU SAND THE OLD CLEAR COAT OFF YOU CLEAN THEN USE 80 GRIT SANDPAPER ONLY ON WOOD NO OLD CLEARCOAT
THE WOOD FILLS THE CRACKS AS WELL AS YOU SAVE THE REST OF SANDED WOOD DUST FOR ADDITIONAL FILLS
ONCE FIRST FILL IS COMPLETE YOU APPLY CLEAR COAT ALONG ONLY THE FILL JOINTS
LET DRY
RESAND LIGHTLY DISGARD THAT DUST
ONCE CLEANED REFILL USING DUST YOU SAVED AND REPEAT AS OFTEN AS NEED UNTIL MOSTLY FILLED
THEN APPLY FIRST CLEARCOAT ON ENTIRE FLOOR AND CONTINUE NORMAL FINISHING PROCEDURE
GOOD LUCK
REPLY TO INSTAGATORR@AOL.COM
LET ME KNOW HOW IT COMES OUT
JAMES
 
 

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