How To Transition From Wood to Carpet?
#1

I want to install 3/4" unfinished oak T&G flooring in my kitchen and dining room. How do I transition from the wood floor to the carpet in the living room?
Does the edge of the carpet need to be tucked under the edge of the wood? Or do I use a sloped piece of hardwood to reduce the height of the floor, and then nail a metal strip over the wood to carpet transition?
I would rather have an all wood solution and avoid the metal strip if possible.
Thanks,
David
Does the edge of the carpet need to be tucked under the edge of the wood? Or do I use a sloped piece of hardwood to reduce the height of the floor, and then nail a metal strip over the wood to carpet transition?
I would rather have an all wood solution and avoid the metal strip if possible.
Thanks,
David
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I agree. Avoid the metal strip. It's ugly and unnecessary. Hardwood manufacturers make (expensive) transition pieces you can use specifically for this purpose. But what Ken suggests works fine and is cheaper, but is a bit more work on your part.
No the carpet should not be tucked under the edge of the wood. The carpet is "tucked" but this just means the edge is rolled under itself, not under the wood. Finish the wood floor first, then tuck the carpet.
No the carpet should not be tucked under the edge of the wood. The carpet is "tucked" but this just means the edge is rolled under itself, not under the wood. Finish the wood floor first, then tuck the carpet.
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Not sure I understand all this talk about reducers and ramps. All the wood floor to carpet transitions I've seen need neither. A 3/4" wood floor, and a carpet with pad seem to be about the same height without reducers or ramps.
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The dealer from whom you bought your hardwood also sells transitional pieces for hardwood manufactured by the flooring manufacturer. I am sure you would want a transitional piece that matches your wood floors as well as a piece of the same quality. Go back to the store and tell them that you want a transitional piece (REDUCER) for hardwood to carpet. Don't use shingles, metal, or anything else. You want a professional, high quality finished looking job. Please!
patricia@twelvepole.com
patricia@twelvepole.com
#8

Patricia,
Your "Please!" prompted this reply. The shingles referred to by Scott IS a professional application. Unfortunately, Scott didn't elaborate. Allow me.
When the desired transition between carpet and another flooring, such as hardwood or tile, is to be level, but there is a height difference, shingles (available at your local building supply or the professional flooring supplier) can be used to "ramp" the carpet up a gentle and unnoticable slope to bring the finished carpet level with the other flooring. The shingles do not show and, if installed properly, are not felt. The amount of rise can be up to 1/2". The length of the shingle varies with manufacturer, but are generally between 16 - 24" -- thus, a very gentle rise to level the carpet and hardwood. It's much cheaper than hardwood transition pieces too.
Jim
JMFloors
Your "Please!" prompted this reply. The shingles referred to by Scott IS a professional application. Unfortunately, Scott didn't elaborate. Allow me.
When the desired transition between carpet and another flooring, such as hardwood or tile, is to be level, but there is a height difference, shingles (available at your local building supply or the professional flooring supplier) can be used to "ramp" the carpet up a gentle and unnoticable slope to bring the finished carpet level with the other flooring. The shingles do not show and, if installed properly, are not felt. The amount of rise can be up to 1/2". The length of the shingle varies with manufacturer, but are generally between 16 - 24" -- thus, a very gentle rise to level the carpet and hardwood. It's much cheaper than hardwood transition pieces too.
Jim
JMFloors