Salvaged Gym Flooring


Old 09-07-10, 08:31 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Red face Salvaged Gym Flooring

Hi All,

So I bought about 400-500 square feet of salvaged Junckers beech gym flooring (polyurethane and gym lines included) for $65 on craigslist. Now that I have it, I'm trying to decide how to rehab it and lay it down. There is the adhesive in the tongue and groove that is an issue. The actual strips of flooring are narrow, but they have some splits, buckling, and spaces where it's obvious dirt got in the cracks.

I'm ok with all of that, I mean by now you could say i'm committed. I'm just wondering...anyone have any experience here, or can tell me how to remove the T&G adhesive, clean out these cracks, or if it's going to look strange to have these dirty seams? Sanding it all down is just not an option right now.

My plan is simply to try to clean out the gaps with a putty knife, fill what I can with wood filler, and also chemically remove the existing polyurethane and recoat it after it's down.

If anyone has cautions, encouragement, or experience...I'm all ears!
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Old 09-07-10, 10:09 AM
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ellijay, Georgia
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Probably going to need pictures for this one. You mention Junkers and adhesive? Perhaps you mean dried filler? Then when you mention spaces...I don't get it unless you've laid them out and discovered you will have spaces if it's reinstalled in the current condition.
Old 09-07-10, 10:51 AM
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 117
I would agree with you to clean out the grooves and tounges of the old adhesive. Perhaps some type of scrapper would would work best on cleaning off the tounges and might be able to get into the grooves too.
I don't agree with stripping the wood board by board before putting it down - I would think it would be a lot easier to do a complete sanding/refinishing with all the boards in place - unless you have different plans other than using this for a new floor?
Keep in mind too, you'll probably need to store this material in some type of temperature controlled enviroment or it may all warp on you prior to even attempting to use it.
Old 09-07-10, 12:22 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: US
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Ah, yes. Much of it is still in one piece. Like they simply cut out squares and lifted it so it's still glued together . And yep, there is definitely some warping going on with some of it. I'm getting it third-hand, so...maybe wasn't the best idea. But they guy who had it first apparently did his whole house with it, as did some other folks whose houses I've been in. The problem with sanding is simply the noise (downstairs neighbor is frightfully grumpy), so I'm looking for a silent solution.

Here's the best pic I've got on me. Thanks for the information thus far!

It's just so awesome I don't want to give it up for lost
Old 09-07-10, 12:38 PM
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If you know or could find someone with a shop drum sander or big surface planer..they could do it for you in a very short time. It would make each piece the same height and strip off all the finish. That might be the rub...since the finish would make a mess of the belt or knives...normally they are used on clean wood. Offer to buy them a new belt though...they'd prob be OK with it.

Depending on your location...check with local community colleges, woodworking clubs, cabinet shops....
Old 09-07-10, 03:13 PM
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 3,188
A couple of cheapo throw away bits and a router table would make short work of the tounge and groove problem.

I would go the same route as Gunguy with either a surface planer or a drum sander. However, if you are plannning on installing this as flooring, you could put it down as is and rent a floor sander.

If you're uncomfortable operating a floor sander (I am) you can probably get a floor contractor to sand it at a reasonable price. You got a real bargain with the price so a small investment to get it right might be a good idea.
Old 09-07-10, 06:19 PM
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Let's say, in unison, "pig in a poke". There. Beech is an OK wood to try to reclaim. Had it been maple, I'd probably jump on the band wagon, but you've got a lot of work ahead and also doubt you will realize a good result. You will go through several planer blades taking the poly off and if you try to remove the glue in the same manner, it will eat them up twice as fast. Good luck with your find.
Old 09-07-10, 10:47 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: US
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Agreed. Deep waters here. I think I've decided on the solution. Throw it down on the floor already, strip the polyurethane chemically. PAINT it and forget trying to sand or scrape the cracks, re-poly, and call it good. For under $100, if I can get rid of this carpet and get a flat surface to play with, it will be worth it. Plus, it's so dang heavy it should be additional soundproofing. Making lemonade here. I'll post pics for posterity when it's all said and done.
Old 09-10-10, 09:33 AM
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So the epic project continues. It's polyurethane in the grooves which I'm managing to simply strip to get a clean T&G.

New question: I have found that this flooring can be floated with the Junckers clip system. So...I have the floor. I need the clips. Anyone know where to buy hardwood floor clips? And if there's a generic out there? I have scoured the internet.

I'd rather simply glue the T&G, but I hear you can't float a hardwood that way.

Any help is appreciated!

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