Sealing/Staining section of hardwood floor


Old 04-06-11, 11:35 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: United States
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sealing/Staining section of hardwood floor

This year, we had our vestibule removed by a contractor. When it was removed, around the newly tired area, two strips of unfinished hardwood were added. Our original plan was to have the entire floor stripped and refinished, but for cost and other reasons, have decided against it.

So we're looking to stain and seal just that hardwood section around the tile. I know it won't be a perfect match for the rest of the floor, but I'm hoping it will do well enough. Hiring someone for such a small section seems like a waste of money.

My understanding of the process is:

              Equipment: sand paper, stain, mask, rags, painters' tape, and polyurethane.

              Do I really need to rent a shop vac for a small section or can I go with a broom and wet rags? Anything I'm missing about the process?
              Sponsored Links
              Old 04-06-11, 04:27 PM
              Forum Topic Moderator
              Join Date: Mar 2005
              Location: USA - N.E.Tn
              Posts: 47,688
              Received 330 Votes on 293 Posts
              Welcome to the forums!

              Hand sanding should work ok. The biggest issue with hand sanding would be if you need to sand the new wood to make it level with the existing hardwood....... but even if it's not, I doubt it would be a big deal.

              I'd skip the tape, stain can and will seep under it. I'd use a brush to apply the stain and a rag to remove the excess but it's ok to apply the stain with the rag - basically it's personal preference It's best to get the stain right the 1st time as stain doesn't always dry correctly when multiple coats are applied.

              Generally it takes 3 coats of poly to get the job right but you might get away with 2 since it's just a few boards at the end. Always sand lightly between coats of poly, that insures a good bond and makes for a slicker finish. It doesn't matter how you remove the sanding dust as long as it's removed. An old paint brush used as a duster should do fine for such a small area.
              Old 04-07-11, 11:41 AM
              Group Moderator
              Join Date: Oct 2004
              Location: WI/MN
              Posts: 19,584
              Received 94 Votes on 83 Posts
              There's a lot of room for this to go wrong but the potential is there for a seamless match

              I would try staining and finishing some scrap first if you have any - the poly will tend to make the wood darker so it can be difficult to know exactly how dark the stain alone should be
              Old 05-25-11, 07:41 PM
              Thread Starter
              Join Date: Apr 2011
              Location: United States
              Posts: 6
              Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
              Well, thanks for all your advice. Just to give you an update of how it went.

              Amongst the Lowes/Home Depot stains, there was nothing that was a great match (and yes, we tried it on scrap wood first). I did my best. It looks okay. Not great. My girlfriend says she'd never notice it, although I suspect she's just being nice.

              Anyway, thanks for your advice. At least it looks better than the unfinished wood.
              Posting Rules
              You may not post new threads
              You may not post replies
              You may not post attachments
              You may not edit your posts

              BB code is On
              Smilies are On
              [IMG] code is On
              HTML code is Off
              Trackbacks are Off
              Pingbacks are Off
              Refbacks are Off

              Thread Tools
              Search this Thread
              Ask a Question
              Question Title:
              Your question will be posted in: