Sanding New Red Oak Hardwood flooring

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Old 11-12-11, 06:25 PM
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Sanding New Red Oak Hardwood flooring

I have just install a new unfinished red oak hardwood floor. I am in the process of sanding this floor, but I need a good advice on what to do. I am not sure if I should rent the drum sander or the orbital sander. I know the drum sand is 10 times faster than the orbital sander but my main concern is that I have some tight/short area in my house. I could reach it by going against the grain but I heard it is not advisable. I would love to rent both the drum sander and the orbital sander but I'm short of cash for renting both equipment. Some, help me with me misery. Thanks
 
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Old 11-12-11, 06:39 PM
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#1 I never would have used unfinished flooring because the new prefinished is better and the finish would lasted much longer, plus can be walked on the same day with no sanding dust.
But to late now, your going to need both sanders, sorry.
 
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Old 11-13-11, 09:37 AM
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I'm not second guessing, Joe, but I think the OP was wondering about the use of the larger square orbital sander they make for the main floor area, not the little corner and kick sander which is normally rented along with the drum sander to get into tight spaces.
The orbital sander will give you better, more consistent sanding throughout the job, without a bunch of boogers that will pop up with the aggressive drum sander. Yes, it will take more time and more pads, but your concern was with renting the machines. Rent the orbital action sander.
 
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Old 11-14-11, 12:38 PM
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I'm wondering whether I can sand against the grain without getting sand marks using a orbital sander assuming I use screens that progress from semi coarse to very fine?

Or will it still leave sanding marks where I go against the grain?
 
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Old 11-14-11, 12:50 PM
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In theory, sanding always leaves marks. With a fine enough grit or screen, you just don't see them.
 
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Old 12-03-11, 08:56 AM
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Sanding New Red Oak Harwood flooring

[SIZE=3][/SIZE]The drum sanderis faster but you can sand gouges into the wood if you do not keep the machinemoving. I prefer a belt sander because it covers more surface of the woodpreventing the possibility of sanding gouges as a drum sander can and the beltsander can sand with the grain. In tight areas use a muti master. Finish with a fine grit (120 or better 80 to start leveling)to satisfaction . If you buyboth tools they will serve you for many years to come and you can now buy themfor a fair price compared to renting. You also will not have to watch the clockand work at your will and to your satisfaction. This is new flooring and onlyneeds to have the joints leveled. In new home construction we always use unfinished wood, there are pros and cons to both laying finished floor and unfinished. The end result is what counts. After the poly dries protect it with waxing and it will last. Good luck
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
 
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Old 12-03-11, 01:44 PM
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You are going to need more than one sander, anyway.

You are going to need an edger for the perimeter, with 3 grits of paper. 60-80-100
You are going to need a big machine, either a drum or belt sander, with the same 3 grits
Instead of screening, I like to use the square orbital with 120 grit.
You will also need a sanding block to hand sand places.

You may also need to screen/sand between coats of finish.
 
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