Removing floorboards?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Us
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Removing floorboards?
Ok. I know this question has been posed multiple times. Just trying to get a personalized solution. We are installing a 12mm laminate flooring. In process of removing old carpet and tile. Have noticed there is sufficient space (less than 1/8 of inch remainder gap) just during our initial removal of carpet and tile to fit new wood underneath. My issue I have is application of the wall wedge that allows for expansion. Any DIYers with previous situations. Obviously removal of my old baseboards sounds super evil. Any advice would be outstanding!
#2
Welcome to the forums! Unless you remove the baseboards you will need to allow expansion outside that plane. That may mean using quarter round molding rather than narrower shoe molding around the perimeter once the flooring is installed. If the flooring will fit under the gap, then you can manually keep the edges at bay without using any gap tool. You will just have to monitor it to make sure you aren't violating the distance as you install each run.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Us
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the welcome! They do fit under with a smudge of spare space. The only issue I forsee is installing the planks at the end of the room from where it was started. Trying to fit the last plank in place without having a gap. What about if I choose removal? Not sure if the 15 year old base boards would all survive and than it becomes an issue of finding replacements. Trying to find the most economical install without risking aesthetic issues. Still early in the install. I have just started removal of carpet and tile. Hoping the whole 1700 sq ft allows the spacing. It almost seems the builder installed baseboards with the idea of accommodating either tile, carpet or wood floors.
Second question. I am converting the carpeted stairs into wood.... What options do u have for the risers? Haven't seen much product intended for such. Darker wood with white risers? Or keep it the same color as the floorboards? Thanks again for everyone's help. I'm a navy man not a carpenter. Need all the help I can get!
Second question. I am converting the carpeted stairs into wood.... What options do u have for the risers? Haven't seen much product intended for such. Darker wood with white risers? Or keep it the same color as the floorboards? Thanks again for everyone's help. I'm a navy man not a carpenter. Need all the help I can get!
#4
The last run may have a little gap in it, but I still think a good small molding will cover it. Just make sure you leave space in the other areas for expansion. I like to use poplar for risers and paint it white. It contrasts with the wood and not only looks good, it helps define the transition from tread to tread. Transverse a semi dark stairway and everything is dark, you can lose your perspective of tread and riser and could trip. Just a personal observation.
#5
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 88
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I think you're over thinking this gap issue, Navy guy. Make your gap from the baseboard and then install shoe molding or quarter round on the baseboards after you've finished laying the floor. This will cover your gap. This is the normal way to do it. If you choose painted risers, make sure to use a good, hard enamel paint. Otherwise you'll be repainting every time someone scuffs the riser with their shoe. Good luck and Semper Fi.
#6
Rent an electric undercut saw and undercut the baseboards slightly higher then the thickness of new flooring and cushion along the perimeter of the room(s) in question . Install new flooring as per manufactures instructions, paying strict attention to the acclimation time / temperature, etc. Once finished the installation you may or may not need to install a 1/4 round or shoe-moulding.