Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

Any tips on recreating factory micro-bevel on cut ends?


sacm3bill's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 10
CAL

07-04-12, 10:25 PM   #1  
Any tips on recreating factory micro-bevel on cut ends?

Hi all,

I'm going to be installing 3.25" x 3/4" tongue and groove hardwood, prefinished, with factory micro bevels. I'm planning on a simple picture frame design that will necessitate boards that have exposed cut ends in the field, where the cut ends butt up against the perpendicular border pieces. There will also probably be exposed cut ends in the border corners as well - havenít decided on 45 degree mitered corners or a basket weave, but either of those will include cuts.

The problem is, cutting the ends removes the factory bevel. (Incidentally the flooring is end matched so the cut will remove the *groove* on the end as well, but I plan on routing grooves back into those ends.)

Now, I may be able to live with the loss of the bevel on the cut ends, but I definitely notice the difference without it, so am exploring my options for recreating the bevel. I've experimented with sanding a bevel in, as well as chopping off a tiny bit of the corner with my miter saw. Both give good results, but the bevel still needs to be stained. I have a can of the factory stain, but wonder if it will be feasible to stain every cut end before nailing the board down. That might work if I don't put any polyurethane coats on, but seems like I'm going to want to do so and that's going to be pretty inefficient - I'm not in a rush, but if I'm waiting for coats of stain and poly to dry I'm going to be installing one row per day. Thatís no good.

So maybe I should just install the entire floor without staining the bevels I make, then stain and poly all the bevels - I'm thinking I'd use some of that good green painters tape to mask off each side of the bevel and use a very small point-style paint brush, or q-tip. But I'd hate to have the entire floor down and then find out that's not going to work for some reason.

I don't plan on having any ripped boards exposed, so don't need to recreate any bevels along any lengths - just the ends.

Any advice on what route I should go? Maybe some other solution I haven't thought of? Thanks,

- Bill

 
Sponsored Links
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation

Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 39,968
GA

07-05-12, 02:54 AM   #2  
Sanding the edge will probably give a more uniform bevel. I would go ahead and install all the flooring, then use an artist's brush to stain all the pieces, then do the same with the poly after the stain dries. It's not gonna be perfect, but will pass most muster.

 
marksr's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 42,787
TN

07-05-12, 04:41 AM   #3  
Since the wood is pre finished, you don't need to mask it off to apply the stain. The stain will be absorbed by the raw wood and the excess can easily be wiped off of the finished wood. Applying the poly is when/where you need to be careful.


retired painter/contractor avid DIYer

 
sacm3bill's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 10
CAL

07-05-12, 07:11 PM   #4  
Thanks for the advice folks, I really appreciate it.

 
bonifp's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1
CAL

09-12-12, 12:12 PM   #5  
I have the same situation. Instead of sanding, does anyone know of a supplier who sells tongue and groove router bits with a microbevel?

 
sacm3bill's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 10
CAL

09-12-12, 01:34 PM   #6  
That seems like a good idea. I ended up getting pretty good at just taking a few seconds per piece to sand the bevel in, but they'd probably be more uniform if they were routed. I don't think you'd need T&G bits, just a plain ol' 45 degree chamfer bit set at the right height - something like this perhaps: Freud 40-114 Chamfer Router Bit 45 DEG

 
Search this Thread