Matching aged wood flooring to new wood flooring

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  #1  
Old 08-19-12, 02:41 PM
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Matching aged wood flooring to new wood flooring

Hello and good day to all.

I've removed the old carpeting from the second floor bedrooms
and have been installing oak parquet flooring.

I chose the oak parquet because the hallway
connecting the bedrooms was already the oak parquet.

Even though I have the exact same brand and color
for the new parquet, the older stuff in the hallway
is a bit darker due to age.

Is there a way to lighten up the older stuff a little?

I could sand it and then apply something like Peroxide
or bleach water maybe?

Perhaps I should also try a furniture re-finisher for suggestions.

Thank you for your time.
 
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  #2  
Old 08-20-12, 04:44 AM
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How bad is it? I doubt you'll be able to lighten much unless you strip it down to bare wood and refinish although a fresh coat of poly will allow it to reflect light better possibly making it appear lighter.
 
  #3  
Old 08-20-12, 06:47 AM
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With time, your new floor will darken with age as well. That said, I would look into refinishing them with the finishing of the new floor to eliminate one difference between them.
 
  #4  
Old 08-20-12, 09:13 AM
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Thank you all for kind replies.

Most of the old finish is already worn off from years of heavy foot traffic.(Hallway)

I have already tried sanding down the older stuff to bare wood
on some small spots and then finishing with the same
Polyurethane as I'm using on the new flooring.

But it makes little or no difference at all, as to the old color matching the new stuff.
Actually the clear Polyurethane seems to have a darkening effect.
(I've also used it on the new pine door and window trim).

What makes it so noticeable is that I am continuing the flooring from the hallway
into all rooms that are joined by that hallway. So the newer (lighter toned flooring)
is butted right into the older (darker tone flooring).

I would guess that the difference in color right now
is comparable to a piece of white pine wood glued to a piece
of cedar.

Perhaps the new stuff will darken eventually as you have said.
 
  #5  
Old 08-20-12, 09:30 AM
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I just found a bit of info on a furniture re-finishing forum.
Thought I would share it with your forum.


"I'll try to address your questions one at a time.

What is "the bleach

The bleach is a two par (A&B) solution. Bob, ya might have to correct me on this, I think the first solution is sodium hydroxide and the second is hydrogen peroxide.

Do I need to neutralise it

It's a good Idea to neutralize any strong bleach with plain ol' baking soda in water. This is really just a safety step to prevent any bleach deep in cracks etc. from leaching onto furnishings at a later time.

How will I know what colour the wood will turn out if it basically goes white?

You should always test your solution in a hidden area (i.e. a closet) to determine exactly how the bleach will react. From this testing you can determine just how light you want to have the floor. Normally the bleach requires multiple applications to strip ALL color from most woods.

would someone be specific in letting me know what product would "outlast all of us2

Varathane is an exellent finish or any oil based polyurethane. Don't use lacquer or shellac. The oil based finish, as they dry, develop a molecular, waterproof bond."
 
  #6  
Old 08-20-12, 09:35 AM
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You do understand that the wood has to be free of any finish including stain before the 'bleach' will be effective.
 
  #7  
Old 08-20-12, 10:26 AM
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Yes that sounds perfectly logical to me.
There was never any stain applied to the old floor to begin with..
The only finish left on the old floor is a minimal
amount of water based Urethane mostly worn off from 20 years of foot traffic.
The area of the hallway is only about 60 square feet
so it will not take much to remove the old finish.
I could even use some kind of chemical remover before sanding
but that would probably not be necessary in this case.

Thank you all for your time.
 
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