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Ugh Lap Marks in My Stain...What to Do? (Time Sensitive)


csanberg's Avatar
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09-03-12, 07:51 AM   #1  
Ugh Lap Marks in My Stain...What to Do? (Time Sensitive)

Done a few floors before, they usually look pretty good. This weekend, sent the wife to her parents' so I could do 2 small bedrooms, hallway and a 24x16 ft living room...red oak. Drum sander 36 and 60 grit, edger same grits, orbital 80 and 100 to even it all out...looked pretty darn good other than some pesky squirls from the edger, but baseboards and furniture will hide most of those.

Stained last night. Minwax wood conditioner. Then Minwax oil-based red oak. Bedrooms look pretty good. Living room not so much. I was just using a rag to apply. The living room was really too large for me to keep a constant wet edge, hard as I tried. I see way too many lap marks and blotches. Should I have used something like a mop to cover the area more quickly? If you do that how do you wipe off the excess?

And what can I do now? Stain is still tacky. I'm thinking a rag with some paint thinner might bring most of it up, then I could recoat? Would the paint thinner adversely affect my 2nd coat? Should I just let it cure then sand it?

 
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09-03-12, 09:13 AM   #2  
Rag and thinner might work to help even it out for you. If there is still stain there, a second coat will not work as the wood is sealed from the first coat and subsequent coats will not soak in to the wood.

 
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09-03-12, 09:19 AM   #3  
I've never seen a need to apply wood conditioner to oak, it's mostly for soft woods like pine that will have an uneven absorption rate.

Wiping or scrubbing the floor with a thinner rag should even it out. Restaining might be iffy, it would be better to give the floor a quick resand [100-120] grit and then restain. Get a stain pad to apply the stain. You can screw a roller handle into the pad holder. It allows you to go faster without a lot of bending over or working on your knees.

here's an example of a stain pad - Premium XL Pad Painters 9" Pad Painter


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09-03-12, 09:30 AM   #4  
Thank you guys very much...if I use a pad, is there still a need to go back through and wipe the excess?

 
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09-03-12, 09:34 AM   #5  
O and are we talking actual thinner or mineral spirits?

 
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09-03-12, 09:42 AM   #6  
For the most part, what is marketed as 'paint thinner' is similar to mineral spirits. Either will work. Technically, paint thinner would vary depending on the type of coating being used.

I've never had to follow a pad with a rag. I suppose it takes a little bit of a learning curve but you should be able to apply all the stain with the pad and move it around so there is no excess needing removal..... excluding of course the areas where only a brush will fit.


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09-03-12, 10:45 AM   #7  
Wiped it down with thinner....not too bad. Got a couple spots too light now, but all things considered, I think it will work. The floor still has variation, but at least it doesn't look blotchy. Oil-based poly with darkeren those light spots a tad, correct? How long should I give the thinner to evaporate before I poly?

 
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09-03-12, 02:26 PM   #8  
Yes, oil base poly will deepen the colors naturally in the wood [including the stain that was applied]
As long as the wood looks dry - it should be fine to apply the poly. Any minute particles of thinner left in the wood will just slow the drying time down a tad and maybe thin the coating slightly.


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09-03-12, 02:41 PM   #9  
I would definitely give it another coat of stain before you poly!!!

 
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