Hardwood layout

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Old 10-15-12, 11:00 AM
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Hardwood layout

Can I install a hardwood floor with the boards meeting at right angles at the corners of the room instead of just running the length of the room? (The boards would then meet at a 45 degree angle at each corner)
 
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Old 10-15-12, 11:38 AM
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You could but it would greatly complicate the cutting, I would not do it.
 
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Old 10-15-12, 11:46 AM
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Hardwood installation

I'm not really concerned about the cutting aspect, I used to be a custom furniture and cabinetmaker. What I'm primarily concerned with is the expansion factor and the holding ability if the cleats to the 3/4" plywood along the ends.
 
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Old 10-15-12, 01:07 PM
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You will have unsupported plank ends (without tongues and grooves), which will lend to the surface not mating when you do have expansion and contraction. How will you fit your tongue and groove boards tightly into the band you create? If you start from one side, the other end will have no place to land securely and you will have to trim off a tongue to make it fit, either on the board you are laying or on the band.
 
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Old 10-22-12, 11:22 PM
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DrWilk, I just did what you are talking about and it came out great. I just routed in grooves wherever I needed them on the cut ends, and glued a snug-fitting spline between the grooves.

(Although, Chandler is a good resource and he seems to be advising against this, so maybe I'm missing something - not sure what he means by a "band"...)
 
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Old 10-23-12, 03:03 AM
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OH, no, if you have the capability of cutting precise grooves, then I am all for innovation!!! This is a DIY forum, and it is possible some folks may not have that capability. I was just warning of the possible pitfalls.
 
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Old 10-23-12, 06:11 AM
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I see this done regularly when someone wants to run a decorative border around the edge of the room in a different color thus framing out the installation.I would glue a spline into each 45 degree corner and face nail as you would any perimeter boards.

The difficulty is cutting the balance of all the runs to end perfectly flush/square to the ribbon board. Each one will have to be routed, glued, splined and face nailed. I'd keep a running check on each row to make sure you are maintaining your square to prevent a huge tear-out if you were off on one of the starting rows. If you are overly detailed and take your time, I think you can pull this off.
 
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Old 10-23-12, 02:24 PM
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I know it is done every day, but please be careful cutting grooves in the ends of boards, even ones cut at 45 degrees. Kickback is a very potential hazard. If I have any to do, I use my 40 pound tenoning jig on my table saw. No errors, and no kick backs.
 
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