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Removing and Reusing Pergo Flooring


JPBJustin's Avatar
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NH

11-20-12, 06:37 PM   #1  
Removing and Reusing Pergo Flooring

So I've bought a house that the previous owner decided to install nice new pergo flooring. They did it themselves. They did it wrong. So the biggest issue is thier cuts. They spent absolutle no time with making there edges look nice. All the trim was put in after the flooring, so I can see where the spacing is too much, but not where it's tight against the wall. And I'm assuming there are plenty of spots where it is. It's way beyond fixable with some handy quarter round trim work. One example of the amazing craftmanship is that around the door casing instead of utilizing some type of flush cut saw along the bottom, they just hacked off about 4-5 inches from every door. Trim, casing and all. Just gone. Then to top it off, even if I could patch in the casing and trim, the way the flooring is cut around the doors, it still wouldn't cover the cuts.
Aside from that, there's no paper underlayment. The flooring does have the built in foam. I'm fairly certain to fix the problem it all just needs to be removed and redone. I'm posting to see if anyone has any thoughts of there own on this issue. And also, if there are any tricks to removing a pergo floor with the intention of reusing the pieces. (Or at least as many as possible.) I should note that I'm using the brand Pergo a lot here, but this flooring is a slightly lower quality than that.

 
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czizzi's Avatar
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11-21-12, 05:29 AM   #2  
What worries me is that you just purchased this home. On too many occasions, a quick install of laminate is done to hide some defect in the old flooring. If this is a kitchen, assume the worst.

Unfortunately, it will be tough to fix the hack job unless you have a quantity of leftover full pieces in the garage. Remove any quarter round and baseboard (although I doubt they bothered to pull this) and try to determine which side is the finishing row. In your case, it will probably be the row that is cut lengthwise. Using a small pry bar, get under the outermost edge and pull up. The row should "unlock" along the entire length. Continue to unlock until you reach a point where you can perform whatever repair you think may help.

If it is a kitchen, I would tear out until I got to the dishwasher or sink area. Also pay attention to the refrigerator area if it has an ice maker line and any areas that may abut to a laundry room or bathroom. Basically, anywhere there is a water source, even exterior doors and windows.

 
JPBJustin's Avatar
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11-21-12, 03:37 PM   #3  
It's funny that you mention the water damage. This home was riddled with it. We were able to get it very cheap because of that fact, but there've been quite a few projects because of it. The laminate however, is everywhere else except where there was potential for water damage. We do have quite a bit of the same flooring. There was a bedroom in the back that received the brunt of the water damage I mentioned, because it had a master bath on one side and the laundry room on the other. The subfloor and insulation has since been replaced in that room and I the last owner had purchased more than enough flooring to include that back bedroom as well.
I also think its great you mentioned the baseboard. One of the best parts is that they did replace all of it after the flooring was layed. And after going through all that trouble it still needs to be redone because they didn't take any time to do their gaps properly. At first it was aggrivating, but now it's just becoming funny to me. Also the kitchen and bath were done with sticky tiles. Those actually came out alright, but that's probably because you can use a pair of scisors to install them instead of a power tool.
Just to be clear, what I want to do would be to remove the flooring by the entire row on the long edge, and then separate the pieces on the short edge?

 
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11-22-12, 04:27 AM   #4  
Are all the gaps on the short ends all on the same side of the room? was shoe molding ever installed?

It is possible that a gap of say 1/4" was left around the whole room, but the floor has shifted to one side. Therefore, you have zero gap on the left and at least 1/2" on the right and the baseboard will not cover it. If this is the case, pull the baseboard on the side of the room where everything looks fine. Using a pry bar, carefully try to get the floor to move in the direction of the gaps. The room will need to be empty, no furniture or heavy objects. As the floor is floating, you may get it to re-align itself as centered in the room. Shoe molding will dress out the whole install.

Keep in mind, and this is very important, laminate flooring is very brittle along the edges. excessive prying will cause a chip or breakout. Whenever possible, use a block to assist when you are trying to get the floor to move. Have the block flush against the laminate and pry from the other side of the block.

Try to send some pictures of the door casings and thresholds, that is a different animal to tackle.

 
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11-22-12, 04:47 AM   #5  
Lower quality flooring will leave you with a lower quality mess, IMO. As Czizzi said, it was probably thrown in to cover other problems, and you have dealt with some already. Are you dead set on the laminate? I am not a fan of laminate, and would steer you to installing at least engineered flooring if not full 5/8 or 3/4" hardwood, staple/nail down. You will have a very solid floor and it won't "clack" like the laminate will. I hate that sound. Saving the laminate is a good economic move....however, it may not work. You'll just have to try it and see. Feathered edges is the biggest problem.

 
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