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questions about placing wood planks as flooring over new 3/4" OSB subflooring.


CurrentWave's Avatar
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01-29-13, 04:04 PM   #1  
questions about placing wood planks as flooring over new 3/4" OSB subflooring.

I have done a lot of research on this because it doesn't follow modern building practices. One place where I read about using wide planks as flooring the person recommends gluing and screwing, which means no underlayment. He also recommends diluted Elmer's glue to seal the OSB before laying the planks. Another place I read if your gluing do not 'seal' the subfloor. The reason for conflicting information I think is because what I want to do hasn't been done for many years. Anyone out there old enough to remember planks as floors?

This is a conversion of an attached garage into a new kitchen. There is a crawl space, and all construction is new.

Remembering I am not finishing my kitchen floor in a modern way, no engineered products - what are your recommendations?


Thank you

 
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01-30-13, 04:45 AM   #2  
Welcome to the forums! What type, species, grade of "planks" are you using? How wide is "wide"? If heart pine or other soft woods, the glue will be used to hold the wood to the subfloor, not seal the subflooring material. Screws? Not heard of that one before. If tongue and groove, use a standard flooring cleat nailer on the tongue end along with the spread out glue.

Another installation method is with slightly countersunk cut nails in a linear pattern across the room.

We have done it on two occasions this past year on projects and they both turned out fine. One was heart pine, glued and cleat nailed. The other was done without glue, but cut nails in a pattern. Boards were between 8 and 10" wide, T&G.

 
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02-04-13, 10:34 AM   #3  
Thank you.
I was considering Cedar or Pine, rough cut possibly, a medium grade.
Wide is 8" or 10" depending on what I can find.
They will not be tongue and grove, just planks.
The article I read suggested pre-drilled and then screwed to remove any possibility of splitting.
The thinned Elmer's was for 'sealing' the subfloor, the liquid nails, in a tube, was for gluing the boards. They were two different things, sorry to be confusing.

Thanks for sharing your experience, I'm glad to hear it.

 
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02-04-13, 10:41 AM   #4  
I want to point out rough cut would be a bad idea, IMO - it's fine on walls and ceilings but you don't want splinters from your floor.

Personally, I'm not a fan of softwoods like pine on floors for wear but some are better than others (yellow pine wears better?).

I don't like the screw idea because they would be visible, making your floor look like a deck. I also think you're going to get a better looking result with T & G - not used on the floors but some of the ceilings and the porch walls in my former in-laws' lake home are T & G pine flooring finished with two coats of polyurethane and it's beautiful.

 
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02-04-13, 01:16 PM   #5  
Countersinking the screws and then inserting a plug would give a nice look.

Several yrs ago we rented a cabin in the Smokies. The walls, ceiling and floor were all T&G pine. The 1st floor ceilings had open joists with the 2nd floor flooring doubling as the 1st floor ceiling. Everyone thought it looked nice [and it did] but I was left wondering what the floors would look like in a few years


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02-04-13, 01:26 PM   #6  
I'd be ok with Mark's suggestion on the countersunk and plugged screws but that's adding a lot of work to the project.

 
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02-04-13, 04:24 PM   #7  
All the wide soft wood flooring I have installed had v grooves dug in the back to prevent warping and splitting. Screwing will require some sort of hidden feature like plugs or it will look doofus. Elmer's glue for a sealer may work (haven't figured that one out yet....), but that is what we use to put down the wood. We don't use tube type subflooring glue at all. If you want to seal the subfloor coat it with Zinser's BIN, then lay in your Titebond II glue and lay the flooring.

 
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