Oak Cherry Hardwood Floating

Old 04-15-13, 10:35 PM
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Oak Cherry Hardwood Floating

I plan to float (although tounge and groove glue) the Oak Cherry solid hardwood floor. It is NOT engineered hardwood which are usually glued.

The sub-floor is plywood on the top of which are hard glued vinyl tiles. Subfloor is pretty level and clean.

My questions are:

a) Do I need to take out the vinyl tiles, for sure, or can still float solid hardwood on them.

b) salesman told me that solid hardwood does not require underlayment. true?

c) I will still glue the tounge and groove portions of the hardwood. hope that helps.

d) what other precautions i need to take.

although nailer and compressor are available but have never done those. do not want to complicate things here and do not want to spend dough on hiring professional installers.

Thanks all !!
Old 04-16-13, 03:36 AM
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I would add that the felt also helps to eliminate squeaks. Nailing down hardwood isn't a difficult job. The flooring nailer can be rented.... or you could buy one and then sell it when you are done. I've installed hardwood in small rms with a finish nailer before and gotten good results.
Old 04-16-13, 04:08 AM
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With solid 3/4" hardwood, I don't think your success rate at gluing will be 100%. Nailing a floor down is not all that difficult and will result in a more stable floor without the possibility of the flooring becoming dislodged at a glue joint. Drawing 3/4" hardwood together at the joints for gluing will be a task in itself as pieces of the wood may not be perfectly straight. Nailing it with cleats will allow for your pulling the wood tight. Yes, the vinyl needs to be removed, and 15# felt installed as a vapor barrier. No "unerlayment" per se, but a vapor barrier.
Old 04-16-13, 08:45 PM
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Kudos to you for thinking outside of the box. Hey, the Wright brothers thought outside the box and they invented the airplane. However, in this case, I think you need to stop, take two steps back, and carefully climb back in the box.
Engineered floors can be floated because they are designed to be extremely dimensionally stable, either by cross ply construction or by incorporating a fiber-board core. This means they not only experience much less expansion and contraction, but also what dimensional change they do experience is consistent throughout each piece. Mother nature makes wood with natural variation. One end of a board can expand to a greater degree than the other. Multiply this tendency in a room sized slab of oak and you're going to end up with a mess. The good news is, because the glue dries so strong, the joints probably won't break. The bad news is, if the joints don't break, the boards will crack.
The other problem you'll run into is with the milling accuracy of solid wood. Engineered wood is extremely size consistent. That's why you can join it so easily. Solid wood is not, because it doesn't have to be. If a board is a little out of true, you can usually whack it tight. Perimeter gluing doesn't allow this and the straps are not designed to apply enough pressure to tighten up gaps between boards that are out of true.
You're doing what I always do when I'm planning a project where I don't really know what I'm doing; I think it out and come up with a plan that I think makes sense. Fortunately, I have friends in many fields, so I can usually rely on one of them to say, "Uh...no" before I get in too deep. So, allow me. "Uh...no"

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